The Breakroom > The Water Cooler

new Axminster store Nuneaton

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bogstandard:
There is a slight difference between Axminster's and Chester's version.

Chester fitted another pulley set to the main drive, so you have 18 speeds rather than 9, but up until now I have only needed the lower range set. I suppose a time will come when the faster range is needed. It also comes with a larger 8" four jaw. A monstrous heavy thing, that makes your voice sound like a squeak when you try to lift it. A very kind gent supplied me with a smaller 6" one, which can be handled a lot easier.

As far as I know, Chester has now gone over to the civilised right hand wheel for the saddle movement to help prevent getting burnt by flying swarf.

It still looks like neither has sorted the right hand cabinet out. The coolant tank can only be accessed from the rear, so effectively, if like normal people and have the lathe backed up against a wall, you can't get to the tank to clean it out.
Maybe later, I will look at cutting an access panel in the front, but because I can't see what is behind it, I am a little loathe to go cutting. I will go down to Chesters and have a look inside theirs to see what is behind that front plate.

There is usually a 3 to 4 month lead time on these machines from Chester, I don't know about Axminster. It seems that they can't get enough in to keep up with demand.

John,

It wasn't much, just a much larger industrial chuck guard, a spare 3 jaw chuck (I can now have one set up permanently with soft jaws), a 'few' extra toolpost holders, plus other little bits 'n bobs. But none of these came as standard, only after I complained about a few things.


Bogs

John Hill:
Guys, as far as I know the right hand cabinet is completely empty and also as far as I can tell symetrical although if you spin it around I guess there would have to be a new pivot for the foot brake and you would have to move the angle bracket that the 'modesty' panel attaches to.  I am sure that would be the easiest way of making use of the right hand cabinet, even though it is fairly heavy steel and I would not like to weaken by cutting another hole in the front when it already has the hole at the back.

My coolant tank sits on the floor which I can reach since I have put that sloped panel aside.


Yes John, I have seen a glimpse of your chuck guard and I must admit to a little envy as this other one is a real pain when using the collet chuck but I hate removing safety features.
I see a few other vendors offer the two stage pulley system  but really the 2hp single phase motor has such a struggle to get things turning in the high ranges I wonder just how much you can make use of those higher spindle speeds anyway?  Yes, the 4 jaw is too manly for me too, it is so heavy I am actually discouraged from using it which is a pity as there are a few things I put in it.  No doubt about it you do seem to have got a good deal on yours.

Davo J:
From the pictures it looks as though those lathes come with back plate mount chucks like mine did.
https://ishop.gasweld.com.au/ishop/stock/item/580713
Mine also has 18 speeds but it just gets left in low. I picked up a seconded hand (like new) 8" cam lock mount 4 jaw chuck, I do 3/4 of my work in the 4 jaw so I usually use that, it's much lighter to lift. Might be worth a look at for you guy's, if your chuck is not cam lock mount. I haven’t weighed it but I would say it weighs around 3/4 or less of the weight of a back plate one.
It was a strange deal when I bought the chuck. It was on eBay and I asked about a buy it now he also lived close and I could pick it up. He replied and said he would sell the 8" D14 4 jaw chuck, travelling steady, fixed steady and a D14 face plate all new for $125. He told me was he had sold the lathe and the bloke that bought it already had them and didn't want them? Who leaves these things behind when buying a lathe? They were all off a Hare and Forbes (Australia, link bellow) lathe and fit mine perfect as it seems it's only the thread/feed gearbox that’s different between mine and it, which seems to be the same as you fellows have.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=L183
Davo

bogstandard:
Davo,

The chucks supplied with these machines are fitted with integral D1-4 mounts.

The first thing you should do with any chuck except independent jaw ones is to put a pop mark onto the machine chuck mount. Then by only using the master key hole on the chuck (usually marked with a zero), tighten a piece af bar into the chuck and measure the runout. Check on all three different mounting locations. Once the best reading is obtained, put a pop mark on the chuck in line with the pop mark on the mount, then whenever you change over the chuck, put it back with the pops in line and it will always go back to the best it can be.

It seems that the UK ones are fitted with DRO's now, and I can honestly say it has transformed my machining. To such an extent I have fitted DRO's onto all axis.

It was only a few years ago that it was a total luxury to have X & Y DRO'd, but now it is becoming the norm on the larger machines.

I deliberated for ages which lathe to go for because I had limited space, and eventually I chose the Crusader. Now I have fine tuned it, and now found out that it will accurately cut imperial threads as well, I wouldn't swap it for any comparable sized lathe. It is perfect for what I want it to do.

The music and words are in perfect harmony.


Bogs

Davo J:
 Thanks John but I have covered all those areas’s, I am only new to the forum not machinery. I have had this lathe for 6 years now (no problems so far) I marked up the chuck back then just after I bought it. I used the V out of the letter punch set to mark it, as it is like an arrow. Also fitted a Miester Xpos3, 3 axis DRO about 3 years ago. It's great as it also has a taper setting for the measuring tapers and setting the compound as well as all the usual features. Years ago there wasn't the range of DRO’s there is now and it was a luxury for me at about $1000 just for the home shop, they are cheaper now though. I understand the way you feel about your lathe, as I feel the same about mine, after adding DRO and all the little bits and pieces as well as adjustments I wouldn't part with it because I know it, and what it can/can't do. It was a step up from my old Hercus lathe, but the old lathe served me well for 12 years. One mod I found a big help amongst others on my lathe was way wipers put them on both sides of the tailstock, the cross slide and compound. After getting swarf under the tailstock once I went through and made them all up to save the lathe ways a bit.
Davo

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