Gallery, Projects and General > How to's
Making a Sub Spindle
sbwhart:
Thanks for the input and discussion on bearing selection chaps, very informative, its certainly helped me understand the issues, and help me understand the intricacies of the design. I now understand why the author stressed the importance of getting the spacer spot on between the bearings, I'll have a ponder which way to go but I may go with the plain ball bearings, I've had a look at the arc bearing and I think they have angular contact bearing that are the same size as the the ball bearing I bought, so I'll have the option to change at a later date but I will check this out.
Thanks again
Stew
John Hill:
Some cars have a crushable spacer between the bearings. I think Lotus ("Lots of trouble usually serious") use(d) they system in the rear hubs of some models.
NickG:
Slightly :offtopic: Bogs, you're right there, they don't make easy for us, just for themselves. I still tend to do a lot of work on my cars as I refuse to pay stealer prices! Having said that, I priced up the bearings on my Mini Cooper S and cannotget the bearing separately, it comes as part of the hub with the abs ring, hence £80 each!!! So I'll have to weigh up whether it's worth paying someone the labour on top of that or spending a day doing them ... these things usually need a day allowing because something usually doesn't go to plan! The one thing that makes it worthwhile is the sense of achievement you get when you do anything yourself.
Stew, can't wait to see this project, i've often wanted a spindle on the tool post, you might be able to use a change wheel to index, like when I drilled my holes in cylinder covers etc. If I had some proper indexing method that would have been very good as it's similar to being able to swap chucks to rotary tables like John does.
Nick
Darren:
Hurry up Stew.....I want to build one too......... :lol:
sbwhart:
Blimey
Talk about slave drivers, :poke: :poke: :poke: :poke:
I know a man who'll make you a whip :lol:
Anyway got on with the housing, this is made from a 38mm (1.5") dia * 150 mm (6") chunk of steel not quite sure what sort I was using but it was a bit tougher than mild steel, first job was to put 20mm hole right down the middle. John kindly did this for me on his more powerful lathe. Then setting it up in a four jaw, clocked it up, and skimmed the OD up for 120mm length. then cut the pocket for the bearing.
This is how the pocket should be sized
Boring the pocket
The bearing is to be a nice slide fit with no woble.
To cut the threads I cheated a bit, as its quite a fine thread and not very long I set the lathe gear train up for 24 TPI set the threading tool up square and cut the thread by winding the lathe over by hand, as my machine doesn't have a threading dial I kept the feed engaged and just wound the chuck backward a forward and nibbled the thread out.
With the first pocket I made the thread length as per the book (3 mm) but this barely gave 2 1/2 full threads, as I don't like things that look as though they well blow over with the fist puff of wind, I went to the brick **** house school of engineering: decided with the second pocket to make the thread length (5 mm), if I'm still not happy with the first one when I make the end caps I'll set it back up and cut it back a and re cut the pocket for a longer thread.
Setting up for the second pocket, the housing was carefully clocked up, take your time with this and get it right, clock it up next to the chuck and at the end other wise the bearing will be skewed .
Now for a confession I didn't use the bore clock, I had a practice and found it just to awkward to use so what I did was turn up a couple of plug gauges one 0.5 mm under size and the other 0.1 mm under size and work to these.
This is the finished housing with the plug gauge
And as you have to get the depth of the bearing seat spot on this is how I measured it.
Plan ahead my boy plan ahead :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Have fun
Stew
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