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Getting a tacho drive fixed on a classic racing bike

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bogstandard:
John,

There is no comparison with Autosol, that is too much like hard work.

Autosol gives a slightly grey overall shine, whereas with a buffing mop and the correct soap you can get that almost chrome, deep lustre on ali, and because of the waxes in the soap, the shine lasts much longer, as the oxide layer is protected from the elements.

A quick spray over with a household polish (I use Mr.Sheen) every now and again, and that shine will last for years.

Even a mop mounted on an electric drill will give better results than Autosol.

I actually use Autosol on my mini drill mop as an intermediate cutting agent, then finish off using the correct grade soap.


John

Bernd:
Bogs,

I'm impressed not only do you make excellent parts by machines, but can really bling (both shiny & repair ) up a piece of cast material as well.  :bow:

Nice job and an excellent thread on repairing a casting that was botched up from the begining.  :thumbup:

Bernd

Jasonb:
Just going back to using the boring head in reverse. If its an imported one like mine and it looks like it is then the black body just screws to the arbour and running in reverse can cause it to unscrew. I had this happen to me when trying to machine an external boss using a standard bit, luckily no damage.

So if anyone is thinking of doing external machining check how the two parts fit, if screwed then grind up a suitable bit so the machine can fun in forwards.

Interesting recovery of an old part BTW

Jason

bogstandard:
Jason,

A very good point indeed.

The way I get around it is that I Loctite everything together on first assembly. I have even drilled and tapped for a locking screw as well before now.
The only bad thing about sticking things together, don't ever expect to get them apart again (without heat).

John

CrewCab:
I've really enjoyed reading this thread John, and learnt a lot (as usual), thanks  :clap:

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