Modifying a Grizzly 9 X 19 (G4000)

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Bernd:
:proj: :proj: Well it's struck again. :proj: :proj:

Must be the heat I guess, but I've started another project.

I think I've discovered that if I work on more than one project I can switch off and work on the other while either waiting to have an idea pop up, waiting for materials or just plain tired of working on this one and go to the other. I can probably get them done. So this is an experiment, sort of.

Anyway on with the project. I'm going to call this part "The Disassembly of the G4000". I have had the Grizzly 9 X 19 lathe for over 12 years now. It was ok to turn some round stuff but it never really work right from day one. Then John (Bogstandard) wrote a post on fixing Darren's lathe which is similar to the Grizzly and I knew I had to do it. Plus I want to make some chances that "may" radically change this lathe. You'll just have to be patient to see what happens. This is going to take a while.

First here is a picture of the lathe without tailstock. I forgot I should have taken a picture with it on. But you know what it looks like right?

First thing I did was to remove the lead screw. There is a split pin holding the lead screw on to the shaft of the quick change gear box.

At the other end are two screws that need to be remove to take of the support.

And there they are, lead screw and rear support for the lead screw.

That leaves the saddle free to be slide off of the ways toward the tailstock end.

And there it is on the ways. Not a good idea, but it was heavy and I needed to set it down in the only clean area I had.

Here's a look at the back of the saddle. Remember it's upside down. On the right is the two half nuts for cutting threads. Just to the left of that is where the worm gear was to drive the carriage. It fell out, plus I forgot to put it back for the pic.

Next to come off is the quick change gear box. Three screws and two dowels hold it on. A bit of prying with a screw drive had it loose in no time.

Three screws inside the box hold the box to the machine.

This is the back plate that holds the driven pulley from the motor and belt tensioner.

Here's the back of the lathe were the belt tensioner was.

Four screws remove the electrical plate so you can get at the three screws that hold on the whole box. You did remember to unplug the machine right?

I laid the headstock and ways on their side to facilitate the removal of the motor.

Now for the four screws that hold the headstock to the ways. You'll find the front two under the feed rate/ thread plate. The other two are revealed when you take the motor off.

And here's what it looks like with the headstock off the machine.

This is where I'm going to leave the project for now.

I need to get a side cutting mill and an arbor for the mill. Unfortunately I have the Kwik Switch 40 spindle. You'll find a description of it on my post when I moved the mill into the basement.

Don't hold your breath for the next installment. You'll turn blue and pass out. It'll be a while before the next adventure begins, Modifying the base.

Bernd

Gerhard Olivier:
Youre a brave man Bernd :bow: :bow: :bow:

This is worth waiting for Mod to tools get me every time :mmr:

Please put in lots of little detail and lots of pics of all steps -

Gerhard

bogstandard:
Bernd,

Because you are only removing a very small amount of material from under the casting face, there is no need to go buying an expensive side and face cutter.

You can use what you already have, a flycutter. You will need to grind the faces to cut in the opposite direction. See attached C-o-C.

The most important thing when doing the job is to make sure the feet are clean underneath and the top faces of the ways are set up perfectly level to the bed, a DTI in your chuck and sweep the whole length of the casting. Shim up under the feet if you have to, to get it perfectly level. If it is a good topgrind and no shims are needed, then just a good table cleandown between swapping the casting around will be fine, otherwise, if shims are used, then for the second sweep after moving the casting, you will have to use a mag base on the head to get it level, as you cannot move the cutter.

Once you have the cutter set to depth, the table and quill is locked up rigid in the Z axis, and the casting manouvered around the cutter for doing both sides.

Bogs

Bernd:
Bogs,

Thanks for that. I never would have thought of using a fly cutter upside down. Ingenious. Thanks much again, you saved me about $50 USD for the cutter and who knows how much for an arbor to hold it.

Were do I send the donations to? :lol:

First I need to find that thread you did and reread it on how I go about this.

Pics and detailed info will be posted Gerhard.

Bernd

Bernd:
Bogs,

Just did a quick check of the base ways. I checked them just like you showed. I find about .0015 variance on the back side and about the same on the front.

Think I still should go through and mill them anyway?

For those of you who have joined recently and wonder what this is all about, check out this thread that John did on fixing Darren's lathe bed. CLICK HERE

Bernd

Edit: Just rescanned that thread and I think I answered my own question. I'm going to go for it and check it all out anyway and maybe touch up the bottom of the ways.

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