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Bumble Fingers courts disaster!

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John Hill:
Probably fortunate in a couple of aspects.  I will be more careful now about where that coolant goes and I am really relieved I found the grub screw on the pinion as that would have surely caused a cardiac event being likely to drop out while it was running!  Shudder.

I have had a few complex pieces of machinery apart in my time and managed to get them all back together again, at one time I was the local 'guru' for fixing sewing machines (tropical island 4000 population) and of course I have almost lost count of the number of car and motor bike engines I have spread across the garage floor but this is slightly different being both heavy and delicate as I am sure there are lots of "slidey"  surfaces I must not ding!

There is nothing that I am not confident about but it would be nice to know how those half nuts come away, obviously they must totally disengage the lead screw or be left behind when the apron comes off.  They seem to be mounted in a dovetail and I presume they are designed to be removable without too much trouble. Lets hope Gareth is going to tell me to just remove the gib to release them from the gearbox.  Otherwise the design appears to be quite straight-forward and one could almost say posessed of a certain functional elegance!

I dont recall hearing about any engineers in the family tree they were more the agrarian types  but of necessity they were known to DIY fix anything from a wire fence to a combine harvester!

P.S. I am sure glad I got the little engine finished before this happened! :lol:

bogstandard:
John,

There is no need to take the half nuts off. There is a block at the extreme RHS that three shafts are supported by. Take that block off and the leadscrew and power shaft should just slide thru the apron if the apron is taken along to the end. Or take the block off, and disconnect the two shafts at the break points near the lathe head. That should allow you to lift the apron away from the machine, with both shafts still thru the apron.

Normally, once you remove the bolts that hold the apron from the top, it will just come away from the main saddle casting.


John

John Hill:
Thanks John.

Gareth's man Arthur called me (I had only been asleep for an hour)  which I thought was rather beyond the call of duty as they knew it was not supplied by them.  His advise was to take out the pins at the head end of the shafts and to remove the right hand block then everything would come away once the four cap screws are removed.  It should be an fairly easy task.  He did mention that some lathes have a break away clutch on the feed rod drive and of course I do not have to take the switch rod off if I remove the switch lever bracket.

Off to the office now where things could be interesting, after weeks of trying to look busy we have received enquiries from Baghdad and Prague (both repeat business) and Sri Lanka.  :ddb:

bogstandard:
Fine John,

Basically the same as I said, in the second stage.

Mine does have the break away clutch rather than taper pins, but I didn't know if yours has.

I told you Chester UK has a very good support team, that is why I always go back to them. Nothing is too much trouble for them, as they have shown in your case. I think any other company would have told you to go away, or in other words, the second utterance would have been 'off'.

John

CrewCab:
I hadn't realised it was Chester UK's Gareth that was providing support here to John H ............ that is impressive Bogs

Nice one Chester  :thumbup:

CC

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