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| kvom:
This afternoon I took a short time to attach the pistons to the conrods, and then slide the cylinders over the pistons to attach them to the crankcase: After a bit of twiddling the engine turns very smoothly with finger pressure, except if the screw for the crank pin is turned down tight, binding the conrods. I'm pretty sure I knw the reason for this. When I milled the crankcase I left the front edge an extra .01" or so from the center line, intending to have room for adjustment later. Well, the time for adjustment has arrived. There are several options for aligning the conrods: 1) Mill a bit off the front of the crankcase 2) Make the crank disk thicker 3) Make the crank pin longer I think the one I'll choose eventually is none-of-the-above. The next time I disassemble the engine I will make an insert a thin brass washer between the crank pin and the disk. I don't think leaving the crank pin screw slightly loose is a good option, as the rotation of the engine will tend to cause the screw to tighten. I received a package from Enco today with a supple of 1/4" hose barbs, so I will think about making a manifold to supply air to all 5 cylinders. |
| kvom:
I have been spending shop time working on the Jeep, but decided to finish a small step on the Halo. In order to provide a grip to set the timing as well as provide some flywheel effect during tuning, Linety recommends attaching a small weight to the propeller shaft. I had recently gotten a broken driveshaft from an offroad buddy, and decided to use the splined end to make this. I mounted the shaft in the lathe and faced the end, drilled a 1/4" hole, and then sliced off a 1" piece on the bandsaw. I then used the mill to remove the saw marks. The next step is to provide a means of securing the weight to the shaft. Based on an earlier suggestion, I obtained some #4 lead shot from a shotgun shell. These will be used to press against the shaft. Since the shot measure 1/8" in diameter, I drilled a 1/8" hole through to the center. Given the splines on the sides, the hole was made with a 1/4" endmill to create a flat spot followed by a 1/8" endmill to mill the hole. I need a set screw to hold the shot in place, and a 8-32 is the next size up where the tap drill is > 1/8". The particular steel was quite hard to tap, as it feels "sticky". Fearing breaking off my tap, I managed to make only about 4 threads, so I hope these are enough. Here's a shot of the weight mounted on the engine shaft: The brass rod was there to tamp down the lead shot into the hold. In didn't have a 8-32 setscrem on hand, so that is another item on the shopping list. |
| chuck foster:
looking good kvom, i just didn't fully understand how small this engine was :bugeye: you have done a great job posting pictures and the write up's that go with the pictures.................thanks. chuck :wave: |
| Russel:
Wow, that shortblock is looking great! One of the things that I really like about the 5 cylinder halo is the sound that it makes. I'm currently working on Elmer's No. 11 three cylinder radial, hoping that I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. But, after watching a video of a 5 cylinder halo, and hearing it...I see one in my shop sometimes in the future. ...following your build with great interest! Russ |
| Bernd:
Kirk, Looking real good so far. Cann't wait to see and hear her run. :thumbup: Bernd |
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