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| bogstandard:
Chuck, If you have a look at my post, http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1539.0 The first picture you come to shows the engine fasteners pack. The sectioned package on the right. Then you will have all the materials as well. It is up to you whether it is easy for you to source the parts and materials yourself, or take the easy way out and have everything to hand. I have attached the material list from the plans to show you what you will actually get for your extra bucks. If you do have a problem sourcing materials, it looks to be a good buy. BTW, the tools don't come in the pack. Bogs |
| kvom:
I bought the plans and fasteners, but not the materials. There are a lot of 2-56 screws of different lengths, plus lots of other bits. I think I would have spent a lot of time trying to figure out what I needed, then actually getting them. |
| kvom:
Yesterday and this morning I had high hopes of finishing 5 cylinder heads. I had milled the profiles, spot drilled all 18 holes on each, and had drilled the 4 though mounting holes on each as well. The first task this morning was drilling the 2 valve holes. The plans call for a 5/32 drill, but mine is missing so I decided to use the nearest number drill (#23). This hole is drilled to a depth of .400", and then a #8 (.200 nominal) is used as a counter bore. Unfortunately, when i did the first hole with the #8, there was no swarf. After some investigation, I found that the tip of the #23 had broken off halfway, and somehow this resulted in oversize holes. Effectively, all 5 heads were now ruined. I was not a happy camper, although I had managed to refine the machining process so that I had wasted only 3-4 hours on all 5 rather than the 3-4 hours I spent making the first one solo. The other sad thing is that I had two #23 drills; the good one wa sitting in the space 5/32 in the drill index, and had I used that one all would be well. Rather than restart the heads immediately, I decided to work on the valve covers. A couple of hours work resulted in a satisfactory result: Nothing too difficult in machining these, given a vise stop and a DRO. |
| bogstandard:
Nice one Kirk. It is coming along very nicely This is one area I will be differing from yours. Instead of the tube spikes (real nice quality, and supplied in the kit of parts), I will be making rigid manifolds and flanges. It will be the same for the exhausts, instead of just a hole in the side of the head, mine will have exhaust stubs. It is all to do with making ones engines unique. John |
| kvom:
I too was thinking of something other than a little hole for the exhaust, but it will be an "add-on" once the engine runs. As for a rigid manifold, I suspect I could still use these flanges as long as the input pipe fits the 6-32 threads. That too would be an add-on. Yesterday I started making the rocker brackets, and today I drilled the holes. I'm still waiting for my set of O/U reamers to arrive; when they do I can ream the cross hole .124". I also finished the milling part of a set of new heads, but didn't feel up to the marathon of drilling they need, so I set them aside for another day. Then started on the bearing carrier. I had a piece of aluminum that just needed a bit of turning on the lathe to arrive at this: The left side is turned to 1" diameter so that it would chuck accurately in the soft jaws on the rotab. The right end was faced; it's diameter is about .200" larger than the final diameter of the carrier. Then I invoked Marv Klotz's flywheel program to get parameters for milling the spokes. Everything is drilled/milled .150" deep or more: Once I obtain the 3/8" under reamer for the center hole, I will turn the outer diameter on the lathe and part off the carrier at the specified .125" thickness. I did countersink the mounting holes after the picture was taken as they use flat head screws. |
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