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| kvom:
I decided to make the hose barbs myself using some .25" brass round. Nothing too complicated other than some tedious tool changes on the lathe. Outer barb diameter is 3/16", with the inner diameter 1/8" and the air passage 1/16". I then drilled the mounting holes in the manifold cover, reamed oversize, and fixed the barbs with red loctite. The inlet barb I just cut from a store-bought connector and loctited to the body of the manifold. With the loctite cured overnight, I assembled to the mount and crankcase. Then it was time to connect some platic tubing. I gave the moving parts a dose of oil and hooked up the air. Unfortunately things went less well from there. It turns out that the inside seal between the manifold cover and body isn't airtight, and all the air is exiting there rather than going to the cylinders. So my plan is to make a gasket from oiled kraft paper, as shown on a recent thread. As I was disassembling the manifold from the engine, I noticed that it wasn't screwed tight. So now it seems that the mounting screws are several threads too long, meaning that the cover was not cinched down tightly to the body. Rather than cut the screws down, I'm still going to make the gasket first. While everything was assembled, I did a few minutes run-in with the electric drill, and the mechanism doses seem to be turning with less force. I may attach it to the mill spindle and let it turn at low speed for a longer period while the gasket making gets underway. |
| kvom:
We have a runner. :med: That is all. :worthless: Film at 11 (or when my daughter tells me where she hid the camera) |
| kvom:
After the early afternoon trial, I made a paper gasket and oiled it to try to seal the manifold. I still needed to shorten the screws to get everything tight. I also hooked the shaft to the mill and ran it for about 30 minutes at ~300 rpm. At the end, the mechanism was slightly less tight. I then needed to readjust the timing. The connection of the crank to the shaft is by a single flat-head screw. If the engine is turned the wrong way, the screw will loosen and the crank will not be turning. So it is important that the engine only turn clockwise as viewed from the front. I also adjusted the timing so that the piston is slightly past TDC when the inlet valve opens. Once all this was done I reattached the air and started to turn the engine by hand via the attached chuck. I started to feel a bit of a kick, and then it sprang to life. The manifold is still leaky, but not as badly as before so that the cylinders are getting air. I imagine that with a better sealed air supply it should run at lower supply pressure. |
| Powder Keg:
Those sound awesome!!! Great job!!! |
| sbwhart:
Well done great Job :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: enjoyed the build Stew |
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