The Breakroom > The Water Cooler

Another Fruitful Day in The Hills

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PTsideshow:
Yes, yes, yes a very good day or even week for that matter indeed! As Sir John said also wack the out side with a hammer of the weights to check if there are any voids in the castings, after doing what Sir John suggested. They were only done as close to shape and suggested weight for the money. I like the flat sided ones better because they make good hold downs with a lot of rolling around!
As to the hacksaw problem, it was the use as a paint can shaker that made it pack it in. :lol:

sbwhart:
Hi Darren

Looks like you've dropped on some good contacts there Darren.

The milling job you showed is a bearing block for a loco, it looks a real nice job, those chaps know what they are doing.

You're not the only one who's a "jammy bar steward" looked at what I dropped on



It was being scrapped off at a workshop I visited the other week because of being 240V single phase, it was outside in the rain, I asked if I could have it, took it home let it dry out for a couple of days, plugged it in stood back switched it on and it ran smooth as silk, a lot better than the cheepo grinder I got from B and Q, the wheels were in good nick too, just needed dressing up.

That saw looks a good size too a little bit of tlc will do the trick.

Have fun

Stew

bogstandard:
If you don't ask, you don't want, so you don't get.

They can only say one of two things, and one of them sometimes ends with off.

Very nice finds there gents.

Darren, I use sash weights for a lot of my cast iron for model cylinders and the like, and what John says will stand you in good stead.

If they have the loops cast on the end, that is usually at the bottom of the mould. I normally find that cutting off 3" to 4" at the opposite end to the loop gets rid of most of the slag and dross, and I am usually left with a good 12" of useful, just over 1 1/4" diameter cast iron bar that has been seasoned for maybe over a 100 years. With such a fine grain that it can be polished to an almost chrome like finish. It was sash weight material that I made the cylinders for my two 'paddleducks' engines, and the boxer flame licker, plus others that have long since gone to better homes.

Bar of that diameter is now about 1 squid an inch if bought from model engineering suppliers. It is well worth the trouble getting it out if you can.

To get rid of the skin, you start at the broken end and then cut below the skin thickness, say a 0.020" (0.5mm) cut. That way it should just peel it off as it goes along. If you try cutting into the skin by going along the outside, say goodbye to a few tools.
For the initial breaks to length, I score around the skin with an angle grinder to a depth of about 1/8", and then 'tap' it with a sledge, it normally breaks off rather cleanly. But now you have your power hacksaw, just cut into the skin with the angle grinder to give the blade something good to go at, and just chop to length.

John

Darren:
Thanks for the encouragement guys....  :beer:

Yes, it was one of those days when you just know things are about to change......I will try to follow up on the offers, some good socialising and knowledge to be had me thinks...

The saw as far as I can find originally had a 3ph 1HP motor fitted, along with the always missing suds pump like the mill. One day I'll find a machine with it still present. Dream on eh.... :lol:

The motor was a 1/2HP single phase and prob why it gave up. The machine was also running too fast which wouldn't have helped it.
I have a 1HP single phase motor that I'll prob fit, that should do it. I suspect the old one was wired in reverse, not certain on this, it just didn't look right?

Anyone got any info on which way the motor should run? I'll do a diagram later to try to explain why I believe it matters, but it's a bit like the Rocker engine, one direction the blade is being pushed straight, the other the wheel is lifting the blade arm up/down.......confusing?....I'll do that diagram...

bogstandard:
I think a 4 pole 1ph motor would do better Darren, as you know, they run much slower.

The saw should cut on the backwards stroke, and lift off on the forwards.

A tin can or bottle hanging up on a pole, with a tap and a flexible tube going down to the blade will solve your coolant problem. Just have a pipe connected to the table drain, thru a filter and into another container, ready to be used again.

John

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