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bogstandard:
Dave,
I actually bought a full set of machine reamers up to 1/2" in 1/64ths from Tracy Tools, all 1MT shanks for 60 squid.
http://www.tracytools.com/reamersassorted.htm
Look at the very bottom of the list.
They are not all the same profile or the same manufacture, but are all good quality and brand new, and do a wonderous job if you are into reamers.
But they do single ones for about 8 squid upwards. Make sure you get the tapered shanks, then you know they are for machine reaming.
Bogs
Bluechip:
Bogs,
Thanks for the link, I have used them in the past for tools, always been happy.
I have been trawling around and I've been baffled. Can you please give a hint or two about this 'Machine Reamer' business? Some seem to me to be just like hand reamers, ie, spiral flute, but with a MT shank. So, apart from being a more rigid set-up than a chuck, why would they be better? Is the lead different?
And what is a 'Chucking Reamer'? Some are described as 'Machine Chucking Reamers'. Much the same as my thoughts. (I had a slightly different spelling.) :D Parallel shank, spiral flutes on these.
It all seems so simple. Drill a hole a bit smaller, poke a reamer through, and there you have it. Nice, accurate, well finished hole. Well, NO. I don't. Apart from FCMS.
Another small point. If you have a close look at some Pics. in ME & MEW, I'm not alone ... nothing to do with Mechanical Dandruff either ...
Dave
bogstandard:
Dave,
I hope I can help, but don't expect it to be 100%, I hope someone will pick me up and correct it.
This is for parallel reamers only.
Hand Reamer
Will have a square end on it, so that it can be turned with a tap wrench.
Can be straight or spiral flute. Straight is usually for deeper holes, spiral for shorter holes or plate.
Normally, there will be a rather long lead taper on it. So the reamer has to penetrate thru the hole by at least the taper length, or else you will end up with a tapered hole. I personally have never come across a bottoming hand reamer, for use in blind holes, and so has no lead in taper, but they might exist.
Machine Reamer
Can have almost any shaped shank, either plain straight, or morse taper. They will not have a square drive end on them.
Normally they have only a very small or if a bottoming reamer for a blind hole, no lead in taper.
The cutting heads come in all shapes, depending on the use they are made for.
Chucking reamers, as far as I can understand are just another name for a machine reamer, and have just plain shanks for holding in a drill chuck.
The sets of adjustable reamers you can buy are for hand reaming only. There are some machine adjustable reamers, but are a totally different and more robust design.
Hope this explains a little towards what you need to know.
Bogs
raynerd:
Excellent post so far... I`ve only just started using reamers and building up a small set for the sizes that I have needed. Currently I have only purchased hand reamers but I did get a small collection of very odd sized reamers in all the tooling that came with the lathe. Bogs post has gone some way into explaining the different uses but I`m still not entirely clear when one should use a machine reamer and when to use a hand reamer. Clearly as bogs has explained there are different profiles of each reamer but how do you know quite simply when to use a hand reamer or a machine reamer?
Sorry, perhaps this has been explained and I have not understood.
Chris
John Hill:
Reamers are as yet still items to be discovered by me so I am watching this topic with great interest.
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