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bogstandard:
Thanks gents, but you must inform me of any areas you don't quite understand. With this being a warts and all build, if possible, by following it, you should be able to build one of these engines if you have the plans and materials. By not understanding something I am doing, then you are leaving yourself open to mistakes. But that is not to say my way is the correct way, you might have a better solution with the equipment you have. In fact, I did consider using a slitting saw and RT to machine all the fins and flanges. But for me, that would have been a long and arduous process for the quantity I have to make, but it might be acceptable to someone who has only a few cylinders to make, and isn't too sure of their tool grinding and plunge cutting abilities. In my case, it is like parting off 200 items to perfect width. I have no trouble parting off, but others might consider it a thing from hell. Many thanks again. John |
NickG:
Great stuff John, I've never attempted to plunge cut fins that thin, it always scares me but think I could probably tackle some meatier ones with your advice now. Nick |
CrewCab:
Great write up John, :thumbup: CC |
kvom:
Nice work John. Two questions: 1) On the tapered part of the cylinder, do you cut the lands to diameter directly, or did you pre-taper first? 2) The crankcase plan shows .001 difference between the hole and the spigot. My plan was to use a .500 reamer for the hole and turn the spigot to fit. I was wondering what your plan is (i.e., what diameter are your spigots?) |
ozzie46:
[ and the tools are set EXACTLY ON CENTRE HEIGHT, NOT NEAR ENOUGH, BUT EXACTLY. If you don't know how to do that, just ask and I will make up a little article on how to do it] Please do John, I'm very interested in how you do it. I have been setting up by adjusting the tool to the dead center point, but don't know if that is close enough. Ron |
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