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bogstandard:
Tim,

As you gain experience, you will find yourself knocking up little jigs and fixtures to allow you to save loads of time and effort, and obtain that elusive accuracy between parts.

The mill backstop is an essential part of machining, and as you have shown, there is no need for it to be fancy, as long as it does the job.

Nice one.

Bogs

spuddevans:

--- Quote from: CrewCab on August 10, 2009, 01:11:35 PM ---Nicely done Tim, I must say I'm impressed how you've mastered the "dark art of single point threading" :bow: ........... the threads on the small SS rods looks very professional :headbang: .............. before my self imposed exile from the workshop around last Christmas :bang: I was trying to get the hang using a bit of delrin, I must get back to that :dremel:

--- End quote ---

Well thank you good sir, but before my head swells beyond belief, I should tell you that those threads were cleaned up by running a M3 die over them, I didnt go to full depth single pointing. I also spent about half an hour hunting in vain for my newly ground up threading tool which seems to have evolved legs and the ability to deliberately hide from me :scratch: Still havent found it, it'll probably turn up about 2.5mins after I grind up a new one.

--- Quote from: bogstandard on August 10, 2009, 02:00:47 PM ---The mill backstop is an essential part of machining, and as you have shown, there is no need for it to be fancy, as long as it does the job.

--- End quote ---

Making a mill backstop is right underneath the tailstock die holder on the "to-do" list :thumbup: til then I make use of a spare hold-down clamp.

Thanks for following guys,
Tim

Darren:

--- Quote from: spuddevans on August 10, 2009, 02:10:23 PM ---

Thanks for following guys,
Tim

--- End quote ---

Thanks for showing.....that quick backstop was good thinking to keep the flow..... :thumbup: :clap:

CrewCab:

--- Quote from: spuddevans on August 10, 2009, 02:10:23 PM ---I should tell you that those threads were cleaned up by running a M3 die over them, I didnt go to full depth single pointing.
--- End quote ---

Nothing wrong with that imho, single pointing gets the thread square to the material, finishing off with a die just gets you to the correct depth quicker :thumbup: ................. see ................ I know the theory :smart:

--- Quote from: spuddevans on August 10, 2009, 02:10:23 PM ---I also spent about half an hour hunting in vain for my newly ground up threading tool which seems to have evolved legs and the ability to deliberately hide from me :scratch: Still haven't found it, it'll probably turn up about 2.5mins after I grind up a new one.
--- End quote ---

A'int that always the way :bang:

Keep the faith :med:

CC

spuddevans:
Well I made a little progress today (the emphasis being on "little") I got some 2mm brass sheet and hacked off a section and then milled the 2 freshly cut edges smooth and to size. I then blued ( well, blacked actually ) one surface with layout dye ( a big black marker from tescos ) and then spent a fair bit of time marking out all the holes, remembering that I had to make an adjustment for one set of crosshead-rod-mounting-holes as I had drilled one crosshead slightly incorrectly.

Just after taking that Pic I removed the piece from the vice and just made little centre punch marks ( more like "pop" marks actually ), then remounted it in the vice and drilled all the small holes. For the 2 packing gland holes I drilled out as big as I had drills ( 13mm ) and then switched to my Boring bar setup. While not ideal for this, it seemed to work ok, although a little slow. ( My boring bar is marked in imperial and I was working in metric, so progress was a little slow as I approached final diameter as I didnt want to over-shoot if I could help it )

Here's the top-plate bored out, sitting on the main cylinder block and the packing glands sitting in place.

Next I have to drill and tap for the packing gland / top-cap mounting holes, and drill and tap for the mounting plate holes.

Tim

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