Another Paddleducks build log

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NickG:
Tim,

Great write up ... may the forks be with you :lol:

I don't buy any of this modesty stuff for a minute ... you've already proved you're a great model engineer and photographer. It seems you're one of those annoying people that can do anything from where we're looking ... a master of all trades!!!!

:offtopic: Her indoors has enrolled on a free photography course that she saw in the local rag after buying the new camera. She's only been to 1 session so far but will have to see if it improves her skills! If she's any good, I may promote her to chief photographer whilst still covering her tea lady duties!!! - Who am I trying to kid, haven't had a cuppa brought to me in the workshop once yet! :lol:

Nick

bogstandard:
Tim,

With regards to the silver solder, it all depends on whether you are using the fine wire or the normal rod.

With the fine wire, you just coil a little around a drill of the same size as the hole you are soldering into, and split it along the edge to form little wire circles. A bit of flux down the hole and on the end of the rod, pop a circle onto the rod, push it down to where you want the joint and warm up from the bottom, not directly at the flux and solder. In a few seconds, perfect joint, no run except a tiny bit around the hole that forms a fillet.

If you are using the rod, all I can suggest is put the rod onto a hard surface and belt it wiv a big yammer until it looks like a sheet. Cut it into narrow strips (pallions) wiv scissors, and again try to wrap it around the rod going into the hole. If you try to feed in the rod, you are liable to get it everywhere.

There should be an article in the booklet explaining silver soldering.

John

andyf:

--- Quote ---Spuddevans wrote: Just on the subject of Silver Soldering, and especially to those who have built the Paddleducks engine, how did you stop the silver solder from blocking up the oil hole on the eccentric straps? The oil hole is only about 1mm from the soldered joint for the con rod. Any hints or tips?

--- End quote ---

Tim, I have read somewhere that typist's correction fluid (Tippex) acts as a resist when silver soldering, but I've never tried it. Might be worth trying on bits of scrap brass to see if it works.

Andy

spuddevans:
Thanks Bog's, I have both the rod and the fine wire, I was going to use the fine wire in the manner you mentioned, cutting it into little rings. Not having done this before I wasnt sure if the solder would run into the oil hole, but I guess using just one "ring" of solder shouldnt cause a problem.

I have read somewhere that some folks put a very slight chamfer on the hole, I'm not sure why, or for what reason either :scratch:

Thanks Andy, I've read that somewhere too.

Tim

kvom:
The chamfer gives a bit more surface area for the solder to adhere to, esp. if the rod is a tight fit in the hole.

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