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| spuddevans:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on August 18, 2009, 03:56:51 PM ---One thing I wouldn't suggest for the crank is silver steel. It goes rusty when you just look at the stuff. I always use ground stainless for mine. --- End quote --- Thanks for the rust warning about silver steel :thumbup: I didnt know that. --- Quote ---This engine will in fact take ball races with no problems, as it utilises a built up crankshaft. But if I was going to do it, I would use needle rollers instead of ball races, unless you can get some very thin walled races. You might also find, one needle roller would do in each bearing block, as if you used races, really they would require one at each end of the block. The choice is yours of course, that was just a suggestion. Bogs --- End quote --- I have 6 ball races that might be suitable, they are 5mm inner diameter, 8mm outer diameter and about 2.5mm wide. I kinda thought that it would need a ball race at each end of the block, but I thought maybe it would be ok to go with the 2 races per block on the 2 inner bearing blocks, and then just one on each of the outer blocks (if you know what I mean). I figure that if I only part bore out the outer bearing blocks ( on the face that would not be visable when built up ) and have the face's that are on show just drilled out to, say 5.5mm, then the bearings would not be visable once the engine was assembled, but still doing their job as all the loading is on the inside of the outer bearing blocks. Does my ramblings make any sense? Tim |
| NickG:
Tim, I was just writing a reply to the same effect as what you just said. I think it'd be ok with just 1 per block since there are 4 of the. If you just counter bore 1 side of each block so the race has a face to sit against, as you say, just a slight clearance will be fine on the other side and you won't see the ball races once assembled. Nick |
| bogstandard:
Don't forget Tim, you should be using stainless races as well. I have a lots of my own stainless races of two different sizes that I use in almost most of my models that I design and build, but for other races I want, I have found these to be very good. http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Dinball_Single-size_W0QQ_fsubZ7867793QQ_sidZ42095710QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14?_pgn=1 Bogs |
| spuddevans:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on August 18, 2009, 05:51:03 PM ---Don't forget Tim, you should be using stainless races as well. --- End quote --- I just checked and I'm pretty sure they are stainless, they are SMR85ZZ types and I think I'm right in saying the "S" indicates stainless. Thanks for the link, :thumbup: that looks like a good resource for bearings, quite reasonable too. Tim |
| Stefan Pynappels:
They are stainless, the code is a composite made up of a lot of info: S = Stainless MR = Straight rather than Tapered Bearing 85 = Size No Material Code = 440C Stainless Steel ZZ = Non removable shield on both sides. When it comes to bearings the following page might be useful: http://www.dynaroll.com/system.asp Stefan. |
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