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How can I release CYANOACRYLATE (instant glue), heat maybe? |
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John Hill:
Thanks Strew, how much heat are we talking about? Is a bucket of hot water or a wafting over with the hot air gun enough? This will be steel Bogs, useful to know about the ali oxide layer though, of course I knew such was there but I thought it was well stuck on! This particular job is to tidy up the side frames of my little engine project by giving them a skim on my shaper. The pieces are past the stage where I would want to clamp them in a vice even if they would fit so the idea is to stick them to the shaper base plate augmented with a few clamps. The fixing has to be stable enough that I can move the clamps around as the job progresses without the plate workpiece moving even a whisker which would surely throw Sally Shaper into a hissy fit and cause an unsightly gouge. Thanks John, acetone is worth remembering, I even have a little labeled 'nail polish remover'! (I spoke to a nice lady at the nail manicure booth in the mall) |
Darren:
--- Quote from: sbwhart on July 16, 2009, 05:21:49 PM ---Hi John Yes heat will release supper glue (can't spell cyanoacrylate) --- End quote --- Can't spell super glue either...... :lol: :lol: :lol: Sorry couldn't resist..... :) |
shred:
I've done a few Ali plates and pieces on my little CNC with superglue hold-downs, but it's always a little sketchy-- without coolant they get hot enough to fly off easily, and once you're done, even acetone is a little tedious at removing the dried glue. |
sbwhart:
Hi John It doesn't take a lot of heat higher than 100 deg C though I usually waft a blow torch over the job, just enough to get a straw colour change should do it. Have fun Stew |
georgeseal:
I had a piece glued up with soup-er glue. steel backing plate alum part was milling and it started getting a little warm so used a can of spray air turned up side down to cool the part. the part poped right off. diferent amouts of expansion might work if you can not use heat |
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