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| Chester Conquest mill power feed |
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| Darren:
I'd suggest threading the pillars in, turn them to set the required distance for the motor mounts and use lock nuts to clamp the bars tight to the mill. |
| John Rudd:
--- Quote from: Darren on July 17, 2009, 06:31:09 AM ---Second thoughts, you don't need two fixing points as the leadscrew becomes one itself. Bit like this --- End quote --- Ahhh, that seems to be a better approach...Nice idea.. |
| Darren:
I'm sure a member on here has done it this way, well before I even gave doing mine a thought... Can't remember who though, hopefully they'll chime in with some tips for you..... |
| John Rudd:
Ok, Spurred on by Darrens comments and suggestions, I've decide to pursue this.. A slight deviation from the original scheme is required. I'm going to make a new leadscrew support plate and drill/tap some new pick up points for mounting the motor. Why? Because I dont want to modify any of the existing mill parts... Will you be watching?....tune next time. More to follow... |
| bogstandard:
That looks to be a very good option John. I think you are like myself. You like to be able to put things back to how they were, just in case. After having used power feeds for a while now, I would recommend to anyone that you should at least fit an X axis one, no matter how basic. The quality of finish you can obtain has to be seen to be believed, with no aching arms. I used to play about with DC electrickery a few years back, and found that car battery chargers, picked up from car boot sales for a couple of squid, make wonderful power supplies for projects such as this. Bogs |
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