Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs |
Morse Paddle in Progress |
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Joules:
Yeah Andrew, I couldn't work out the publicity stunt of trying to get the radio, surely building a reproduction would be far more useful and a hell of a lot cheaper. They literally want to wreck, the wreck !!! |
vtsteam:
Let the wreck rest in peace. |
Joules:
Out of interest, would anyone be interested in me posting drawings for building a paddle. Might be a nice weekend project for a grandchild or friend ? I made this out of the scrap box, so only just got round to doing a quick drawing of it. Not dimensioned yet as nothing is critical. |
vtsteam:
Of course, Joules! Post away. :beer: |
Joules:
Here's my drawing, treat it as a guide no dimensions are set in stone. If you go for a none conductive base, the contact posts can be 3mm taller. I would recommend Delrin or Acrylic for the insulators, you want something that won't creep over time and work loose. The contact and stud could be one piece, I just wanted to challenge myself in doing a very short blind threaded section. I modified a bottom tap to achieve this with almost no lead in. An M3 brass bolt would be a good one piece substitute and just machine the head so it is slightly domed. The key wire can have a small flat ground on it for the grub screw to bite and keep it locked in place. Use other images where the drawing detail may not be so clear, or just ask. For the wire post countersunk fastener I drilled a 10mm hole, for the contact posts I used a 10mm end mill to have flat bottomed holes. I haven't shown any wiring, you can mill out the base or find other ways to attach. It can be used manually or as I prefer using a keyer that produces the dits and dahs if you hold the paddle over. My preference is dits on the left and dah's on the right. Phono plugs can be used and say put either side of the key wire post. If you go for an alternative base material, it helps if it's heavy as it will move about otherwise. |
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