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Making a Rotary Table Spigot

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Darren:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on July 01, 2009, 04:06:16 AM ---Darren,

I think it comes from you showing the 5c collet, giving the impression you would be making a holder for it to fit onto your RT.


John

--- End quote ---

Ah, I see,

The 5C wouldn't be used on the RT, just on the lathe. The spigot could be held in the 5C collet on just the section behind the thread which is currently 30mm dia.
(The chuck register) This could be skimmed as it wears or becomes marked.

I will have to have a go at machining the Morse Taper so see exactly how and what I end up with. Start with it right back and maybe leave enough room to skim it too if necessary at a later date if it becomes marked/damaged.

One of the reasons for all this is to use the same spigot on the Smart and Brown lathe and the mini lathe as that has an MT taper in the headstock.

That way I get a four jaw and face plate for the mini lathe and a 3 jaw and faceplate for the S&B, oh and a driving plate too.
How well it will hold is another matter, but might turn out ok. Will just have to wait and see.

One thing I forgot to mention is that I had to modify the mini lathe as I couldn't get to gears to mesh properly. |But that was easily done by extending one of the slots in that gear holder plate thingy-bob, what's it called?

bogstandard:
Banjo bracket.

Darren:
That's the whatsamacallit.... :)

Ta.... :thumbup:

Darren:
Well it's now "Taper Time"... :)

This is my first ever attempt at making a taper. I have read all sorts on the net, mostly saying you need a taper turning attachment.....coupled with complicated angle settings etc... :smart:

Well that all sounded a little too complicated and expensive for me..... I just set the cross slide over, I don't even know what angle I used and this is how I went about it...... :ddb:


To set the cross slide over to the desired angle I used this 2MT-1Mt adapter



The slide was set over and the angle gauged by running this little device up and down the taper. Adjustments were made until no clock movements could be discerned.



Now the angle was set it was time to fit the piece into the lathe



And a little while later we have a taper.



I did actually test the taper as I was going along just to be sure all was ok with this. Internal is 2MT.



Almost didn't have enough room at the small end....but just manage it.... :med:



The complementary tests with a Sharpie were carried out to check for high spots, all seemed ok.



Snug as a bug...with no wobblyness at all. Slap your hand on it and you need a tap from the underneith to get it out again.... :)



Of course I could have fitted a chuck or backplate, but for now a single, allbeit grubby, bolt is all that is required..... :ddb:



Almost ready for the next bit now.... :)

Surprisingly this really didn't take very long at all, 40min max. But If I were to do it again I would assume it would be quicker than that.

bogstandard:
Darren,

Now you are cooking on gas.

There are a few ways of making tapers, the one you have used is about the easiest to do, but the most limited. You can easily cut the length of stroke of your topslide, but to do any longer takes a bit of fiddling about, and hoping it blends in.

Spin did a little write up to show how he did his morse taper. Basically exactly the same way as you found out. Isn't it nice doing a bit of experimentation and it works out perfectly?

Maybe you need to make yourself one of those mini centres, but if you need something in a hurry, grind away at the side of a solid centre until you get clearance for your tool. You can in fact buy them ready done.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Centres

Second one down, MT half centres. But you must lubricate a solid centre while it is in use, otherwise they might friction weld themselves to your job.

Bogs

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