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| The Artful Bodger's nutating engine! |
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| bogstandard:
John, I know it can be very difficult when you start to learn a completely new discipline. I think your best bet would be to try to obtain some engineering adhesives rather than relying on what adhesives you already know about. I buy a Loctite clone high strength engineering adhesive, about half the price of normal Loctite, at about 12 squid for a medium sized bottle. You only use it in drops, and it lasts me a couple of years at least. In fact most times it goes well out of date before the bottle is empty. I also have two smaller bottles, about a fiver each, one is for high strength fits with up to 0.25mm (0.010") gaps, and the other is a bearing fit. These two are the ones that can really get you out of a fix, but not used as often as the above. The gap filler one is much thicker than the other two, so it stays where it is put. They all work on the principle of setting when there is no air present, so when they come, the bottles are only half full, they don't go off when they have plenty of space around them. Those three take care of almost any job I am liable to encounter. They do take up to 24 hours to reach max strength, but they are really well worth having in your arsenal. John |
| sbwhart:
John Thats good advice from Bogs, I've had a lot of experience with industrial adhesives and used in the right place they do a great job use them in the wrong place or in the wrong way and your in trouble, hence people shy away from them. Just to give you an idea of how good they can be if used correctly, its now common practice to fasten Full size loco wheels to the axles using high strength loctite. If you google loctite there some good info there about how to use there product. Have fun Stew |
| John Hill:
Thanks, all good advice and well noted chaps but I think I will be sticking with the super glue until I see that my concept is valid as I do want to be able to drop it in boiling water if necessary to dismantle and remake any bits. Right now even the frame is glued together but thats only until I can double check the geometry for the port openings, such cylindrical, three dimensional, hyper-whatsit solutions I find to be unachievable by the calculation method. Meanwhile my Swedish blowlamp is soaking in thinners and may be usable again soon which should serve admirably to pre-heat the bits for soldering in the final assembly of the frame. |
| NickG:
John, Just been able to look at your pics on this thread as haven't had internet at home until today due to moving house (pics won't show at work from your host). Looks a very intriguing project and will continue to follow it. Great work! Nick |
| John Hill:
All the bits together in one place at last! But not finished yet, I still have to make the port openings. First step use a felt pen to mark the piston skirt...... ... so I put the pen in the exhaust port and turned the engine through one revolution. This is what I got on the piston skirt.. .... and there we have it! A nice oblate shape showing clearly that ports can be cut that will be open on the inlet stroke and closed on the exhaust (and vice versa) which is exactly what is required. |
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