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Rocketronics electronic leadscrew |
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Dell:
am hoping someone on here is up on electronics, I am a bit confused the connection from driver to ELS said can be wired directly or alternatively use an Rj45 but driver end has red to pul+,dir+,and ena+, but if I use Rj45 ( although I am not ) it won’t have red piggybacked so do I need to do that or would it be linked internally? thanks in advance Dell [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] |
philf:
Hi Dell, I'm sure you need to connect PUL+, DIR+ and ENA+ on your drive together and to the +5v on your ELS. (As in the diagram.) The driver will have an opto-isolator input and the ELS will ground the other side of the opto when the output is active. Cheers. Phil. EDIT: Here's a diagram of a typical controller/driver interconnection showing the opto-isolators on the input to the driver: |
Dell:
Thanks for that philf Finally finished fitting the X stepper today, the end of the leadscrew had no thread on the last 12mm but was tapered so I turned it true using a graver then used a length of 10mm silver steel bored a hole to suit the leadscrew and then drilled both for a pin but I also used locktite, so that is all the mechanical work finished now also been doing some of the wiring while I am waiting for the new encoder to arrive . Dell [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] |
Dell:
am trying to get to grips with my Rocketronics ELS ( threading) there are a few parameters I need to put into the controller before auto threading, pitch (metric ), ( if imperial tpi convert to metric) length of thread, depth of cut, angle of cut, it’s the depth of thread I am having trouble with, a google search turns up 6 or more formulas for working out, same on YouTube so I am totally confused ( not difficult at my age ) , if it wasn’t auto threading it would be a trial & error method cut try a nut cut and so on, I am sure someone on here will have a definitive answer. Some of the clocks pre 1900 I do the manufacture had there own thread forms and they were made using thread plates and although I have some they don’t cover all manufacturers, it would be nice to also be able to work out a way to find the pitch and form of them as well , I know I can use a pitch gauge to find something near but is there a formula for doing it, for example did they all use tpi per inch or something else. thanks Dell |
Dell:
Sorry not the best of videos but shows it’s working |
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