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Casting and Machining Angle Plates for the Lathe

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vtsteam:
Tom, it's surprising how fast sand will come back into condition. I hadn't used the sand for this last pour for a very long time and it was completely dry. This is my non-ferrous sand. The iron sand has been in use for the last several months.

Anyway, a couple hours before I was going to pour the angle plates, I remembered the sand was all dried out, so I added a little bit of water at a time while using a small flat mason's trowel to condition it -- I had about 70 pounds in a rectangular plastic storage bin. It took me about 15 minutes of cutting and shifting the contents and about 2 cups of cold water to re-condition it.

This sand was old stuff. Just sand and fire clay, not even Bentonite (which would have probably needed less water). Leaving it for a couple of hours always seems to improve it. By the time I needed it it was ready to go. I didn't have finer facing sand ready, so the mold was just made up of ordinary old molding sand.

It would be good to have some company casting here, if you get the chance!

tom osselton:
I’ve got bentonite in mine the sand is a finer grade for grouting tiles. I usually use a tarp for mixing with a old spray gun for the water rather than drag out the hose. What is your mix for iron seeing as coal dust went out with the Dodo.

vtsteam:
Same as Ironman Tom, 8% Bentonite, 4% water. No coal dust in the regular sand, but I've used both sawdust and coal dust in the facing sand: 2-1/2% finely sifted sawdust or 4% coal dust.

I don't have much sand -- I've never worked with more than 100 lbs. I just keep re-using it. So I just need a cup or two of water to re-hydrate, and I often use a spray bottle, as it spreads it out better between turnings with the trowel. My aluminum sand has worked for at least a decade. Iron sand probably will need replacing more frequently, but I'm still working with my first batch.

vtsteam:
I cast a second plate just like the first. Then the first operation in machining the angle plates was to face off the longer leg of each plate. This was accomplished by using a length of pipe as furniture and bolting through the lathe faceplate.

vtsteam:
I then bolted the shorter un-machined leg to the faceplate. I added shims and checked with a machinist's square to ensure that it was standing at right angles to the faceplate.

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