Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
Insert Madness.....Help Please!
chipenter:
you could also modify your exiting holder by taking 20 thow off each side , the lead in angle is normally 5 degrees , don't take to much as you want the screw to pull into the corner .
vtsteam:
Thanks Pekka, that's very good information, and I imagine you're right on all counts. :thumbup: :beer:
Jeff, I think I'll leave these as-is, and just make new ones for the larger triangle inserts. :zap:
My main purpose in using carbide at all is in dealing with sand and scale on iron castings. I'm starting to realize that (like Pekka said) I should be looking for .8mm radius, not .4, and in the older system C2 not C6 for that.
Probably though, it would be even smarter to just first go over the to-be-machined surface of castings with a hand disk grinder first, and if down to clean metal, just switch to HSS!
Well, of course, can't do that with internal surfaces.
PekkaNF:
I am not seasoned with sand castings, but I found it usefull to "get under" the hard surface. If lathe will manage deep enough DOC the good. And to have a swipe with angle grinder under the "skin" at the start will help to make the first critical cut. I found it useful just a touch with angle grinder, right at start would help a lot.
For sand casting I used cheapest ever brazed tooling I got...my friend bought a pallet of old brazed lathe tooling, they looked pretty similar all. Ugly tip on a 3/4" shank and that's it. He has few lifetime supply of those.
I might be reluctant to use expensive tips for plowing through cast skin. There will be hard spots.
vintageandclassicrepairs:
Hi Steve,
I find the 0.2 and .4 radius tips too easily damaged in normal use, I keep a few for use when needed to make tight radii on stressed parts such as collet grooves on engine valves
A way to use up odd tips that you do not have a holder for is to braze the tips to bits of square bar, you may need to angle the tool end of the bar to provide cutting edge clearance
I have re heated them and turned the tip to a fresh point and they still seem to work well
A week or two ago I needed to make an oddball 20mm metric nut but found that my internal threading tool to suit the pitch was too big to fit in the bore !! I hacked one end of a piece of 5/8 square bar down to fit the bore and brazed on the threading tip. it got the job done without waiting weeks after ordering one! The nut is made from EN24 fits the end of the crankshaft of an 8hp De Dion (1902) and holds on the clutch
John
krv3000:
hi right just sum tip's :D when getting tooling sum tool bit holders have printed on. Numbers this Number is more than likely a Number that they have made up so you only get their tips. with the net its possible to cros refrains this Number to the conmen ISO standard ones you have got the Number say its TCMT stamp or engrave this on to the tip holder then you will always have it on hand. right then you need the finish code and I can see people saying wat?? right just say all your tooling for the lathe uses TCMT tips right but wat material are you going to turn I.E will it be brass. steel . stanles steel cast ion and so on I see and hear so many complaints regarding the finish their getting this can be dawn to two things Ronge tip or witch will be more common Ronge steel the finish cod refers to wat type of materiel your turning with that tip and also the finish on the part ones dune for example my tips are CCMT but I have 4 boxes of them yes their all the same type but one box is for steel one box is for cast ion and one for stanles steel and brass if you look on the back of a box of tips their shod be a label with a culler code and a prefix leter the culler and leter refers to wat type of material the tip is made to cut. yep I have to got tips off the net witch turn out to be crap in the ad it may say general purpose but wat for ??? any way hop this helps
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