The Shop > Metal Stuff

New lining for the iron furnace

<< < (13/14) > >>

vtsteam:
yep, Tom I think the big problems arise when you start getting to Iron melting temps for a protracted time. It's a different world.

tom osselton:
I was thinking that too maybe I’ll pick up another stainless beer keg or tig some banding around it to extend it down if it’s a problem.

vtsteam:
Tom my latest lid really has held up perfectly after the first couple of heats. It looks new even with a 1 hour iron melt. Placing the blanket on edge and using 1" blanket and generous amounts of sodium silicate is the way to go. This cements every part of the blanket edge to the top of the lid. The blanket is strongest in this direction.

I did earlier try putting fastenings into the side of the lid on my first lid -- didn't work. That lid had the layers of blanket running horizontal. It will never hold that way at iron temps.

I covered the new lid with 3 coats of Satanite, which is really tough stuff once fired. Much, much, much stronger than ITC HT-100 (and much, much, much cheaper).

You can paint coat the Satanite afterwards with ITC if you want (I have). However,  I'm not sure that will really do much in the long run. The reason is, when melting at iron temps, a dark brown glaze of vaporized slag quickly covers the interior furnace coating so it's no longer reflective.

 I have a feeling that after 3 or 4 melts there's going to be no difference between plain Satanite, and Satanite covered with ITC. I'm sure ITC works great for forges, and probably non-ferrous foundry furnaces. But at ferrous temps, it's a different story.

tom osselton:
Interesting maybe that “ dark brown glaze “ is the reason you saw a difference in melting times.

vtsteam:
Doesn't look that way, Tom, because I coated the furnace lining with new ITC before the last melt, and that one took an hour.

I'm still wondering about the disk rotor metal itself. I think the earlier iron I had (from a cast iron section of rail) was easy melting. It also poured easily without inclusions, produced nice easy machining gray iron even without ferrosilicon.

Earlier than that I was using iron from cast radiators, and had lots of problems with inclusions -- though this might have been bad crucibles, too low pouring temp, etc. as well. I might try melting radiator metal again to see how well it works now with more experience, ferrosilicon and a better setup all around.

Trying to think of a subject to cast maybe this afternoon. Something simple but useful....

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page