Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
induction heater
shipto:
--- Quote from: awemawson on November 12, 2021, 05:27:05 PM ---The rule of thumb I’ve worked to is 40% of the output power of the induction furnace is needed for cooling the electronics and the coils and cables.
So my 100 KW output induction furnace originally had a 39 KW refrigeration chiller (which I’ve replaced by a huge heat exchanger fed by 47 litre a minute ground water sourced water supply at about 10.5 degrees C from my borehole)
--- End quote ---
:jaw: Wow your talking a mahooosive way away from what I have, can't remember exactly what it was but this is advertised at 1000-1500 watts or somewhere in that region.
WeldingRod:
The other challenge is pushing the coolant through the coil!
Back when I was doing electromagnetic levitation/containerless processing at Rice, I was trying to keep cold from melting down with a kilo Amp of 40 kHz RF going through them. I had a serious pump and found that 3/16" was the smallest I could use without making steam. Skinny tubing = induction awesomeness... I did some stuff with rectangular tubing also, but it really didn't play well with the funny shapes I needed.
So, for your stuff, some suggestions:
Hook it up to compressed air and a muffler. Put the throttling valve on the outlet: heat transfer is related to density, and compressed air is more dense.
Hook it up to city water with a long coiled hose to keep the RF out of the pipes.
Make a pressurized water reservoir and pump it up before a heat cycle.
Find a higher presdure pump. A tiny/cheap/Harbor Fright pressure washer pump isn't insane for this.
Consider larger diameter tubing squashed oval after winding. Ideally squashed while filled with something like low melting metal. Also consider installing thin insulation on the coil to allow the turns to be closer together.
Fyi, theres going to be an optimum inductance, if you start changing the coil. Lower inductance = more current = more heating = higher capacitor current. The caps are probably your limiting factor!
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
awemawson:
I'd avoided a total loss system like that running directly through the pipes as they would fur up. Hence my humongous heat exchanger, which also allows glycol as anti-freeze in the furnace water.
I pump the water round using a Grundfoss pump
https://www.madmodder.net/index.php/topic,13100.275.html
shipto:
Had a quick browse through your thread Awemason it looks brilliant. I thank you both for your input but most of it is far outside this project I am just going to have to do what I can and deal with the limitations. I checked on my temperature controller and it will do to set a maximum temp and shut it off if it exceeds it even though it wont deal with the amps alone so its going to need to switch bigger relay. The thermocouple can go into the heatsink the pump is mounted on.
Anyway I did manage to free myself to do a bit today and am now debating with myself about getting a bigger power supply for it which is part of the reason I went for the smaller of the heatsink options I had thought of.
WeldingRod:
Make sure you put something in there where you can verify you are getting coolant through it, and not steam!
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
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