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| Peening tips? |
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| Mike K:
I'm making a pair of Kant Twist clamps. I'm not using threaded fasteners to hold the plates together; according to the plans I have, I've made pins and am peening the ends. The trouble is that the slop that I thought would go away hasn't. My pin shoulders wound up about 2-3 thou smaller than the holes, and they're about 102 thou long going into 16 gauge (62 thou) thick arm plates. After a few minutes of peening with a small ball pein hammer I have the pin staying in and not falling out, but the 2-3 thou slop is still there and the extra 40 thou that I thought was needed for peening hasn't reduced that much. So, there's slop in both directions. I'm wondering if: 1) My hammer is too big?...it's 8 oz and on the scale of the 3/16" pins maybe the end is too flat? B) The extra 40 thou beyond the plate thickness is too much? The plans were calling for 60 thou, though. And iii) I just need to spend much more time hammering? Any tips for peeing would be appreciated. |
| awemawson:
You are peening round the edge of the pin not just hitting it square on aren’t you? |
| Mike K:
Well, no...I was hitting it square, but with the round nose end of the hammer. I guess this is an obvious mistake. |
| Mike K:
Actually, I was hitting every spot on the face, square on as well as the edge. I think I need a smaller nosed tool, like maybe a small drift with the nose rounded? The pin face is only 3/16". |
| chipenter:
Rivet snaps are the tool to use , you can make them with a ball nosed end mill or buy them ready made . |
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