The Craftmans Shop > New from Old
It's BIG, Yellow and digs holes! JCB 3CX Project 8 is joining the Tractor Shed
WeldingRod:
Wow! An actual accumulator!!! If you have the fittings you may want to verify that it's still pressurized. Sneaky would be to apply pressure from the water side with a hand pump. Presdure should go up quick to the precharge pressure, then the slope will change.
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awemawson:
I suspect that it isn't, as the poor old pressure meter oscillates all over the place when running !
WeldingRod:
Ooh! Yeah that's not optimal! Do you have the gas fittings? Theres, like, 5 standards :-(
I had to kit our shop with a whole whack of them. And a gas booster to reach 5ksi precharge...
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awemawson:
Well at long last I'm getting round to sorting the irritating oil drips from the front axle.
The offside front hub drips from its rear seal which involves quite a bit of dismantling as the seal is the far side of a large bearing that has to be removed, but it's a drive on fit. I now have the seal and a set of bearings as they are unlikely to survive removal.
The front axle differential pinion shaft seal is dripping - this requires the front of the front prop shaft to be removed, the drive yoke and retaining 'staked nut' to be removed then the seal to be pulled and replaced.
I've been held up devising a safe way to support the front axle while this is going on. The various nuts are torqued to phenomenally high values so undoing is not going to be a gentle process and I don't want it all to come crashing down.
Rejecting my wimpy axle stands as too weak. A friend gave me some stout 'cable jacks' - very adequately strong but sadly 6" too tall. Another friend cut me some huge baulks of tree trunk from his wood - height obviously easily adjusted but their girth was so big I couldn't get them in place round other obstructions. In the end I found a 6" x 6" gate post that had rotted out and was destined for the bonfire, but there was enough reasonably sound timber to cut five one foot lengths to arrange as cribbing that seems (now in use) to be very adequate for the job. Much better to have wood / metal contact than metal / metal contact in situations like this.
So this morning I loosened the five wheel nuts using a 6 foot scaffold pole (660 nM torque :bugeye: ) before raising the machine on the front bucket and applying the cribbing. Then it was a case of removing the wheel and it's associated mudguard.
awemawson:
So with the wheel out of the way access was far better to the prop shaft yoke etc.
The front U/J is retained by 12 point 3/8" UNF bolts - first time I've come across these, but apart from being extremely tight they came off OK with a normal 3/8 bi-hex socket.
This revealed the 'staked nut' that holds the yoke on - now this is tightened REALLY tight then the staking is applied, so to stop it rotating there is a special tool that slides onto the yoke and the other end rests on the floor. I did what I could to 'unstake' the nut then again using the 6 foot scaffold pole broke the nut free.
This allowed me to tap the yoke rearwards and remove it. Not suprisingly the seal surface of the yoke is rather scored.
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