The Craftmans Shop > New from Old
It's BIG, Yellow and digs holes! JCB 3CX Project 8 is joining the Tractor Shed
awemawson:
Today I got a few hours to drain the coolant and re-fill with Anti-Freeze of a known type.
Now we all know what happens when we put anti freeze in - it seeks out every possible weak spot in the system - well I don't think it had to do much seeking - there was a BIG leak :bang:
You may recall me saying that when I got the machine the coolant was too low in the expansion bottle for me to draw off a sample to test - well this is probably why ! As I drained what was in the system undoing the bottom hose I did take a sample and my refractometer tester said that it was protected to below minus 25 so any damage is unlikely to be by frost.
Having initially started the engine after re-filling to try and circulate the new of course water has splashed EVERYWHERE and definitely determining where it's coming from isn't easy until things dry off a bit.
However I'm fairly certain that it's the radiator itself sadly. Fortunately it looks fairly easy to remove (two hoses and four bolts) but I think I'll try a pressure test on it in situ before I remove it. The expansion bottle pressure cap is a 7 psi one so a low pressure test I think.
Just to rub salt in the wound, the rev counter that got a new glass the other day was working happily showing approx 1000 rpm, then as I watched it it fell to zero, and came back, then back to zero - the hours meter that's embodied within it still works, but my money is on a poor contact on the alternator 'W' terminal after all the coolant splashing about in the engine bay.
mc:
Worst part of getting the radiator out, is the hoses. Top and bleed hoses you can take out with the radiator, but the lower one is a nightmare if it's got a transmission cooler attached.
Transmission cooler should be held onto the radiator cowling with a big P-clip. Last one I done, I left the cooler in place, as it's easier to wrestle with the bottom radiator hose and P-clip bolt, than the two transmission oil pipes.
Rev counter will likely be a wiring issue. I've yet to come across an older JCB where the chassis wiring isn't falling apart.
awemawson:
Well Morray I hope that you are wrong ! The top hose is a dodle as fully exposed, the bottom hose is a bit of a wriggle but looks quite possible with a socket on an extension. I'll probably need to slacken off the mounting bolts for the oil cooler to slide the rad upwards.
. . . . because . . . this morning I proved the leak to the radiator. I removed the expansion pipe from the system to the expansion tank and fitted a PCL air fitting to it, and added a short length of 1/2" pipe to where it had been, which I blanked off with a bar end and Jubilee clip. Then having once more drained the system using the bottom hose I attached a small regulator and brought the system up to about 5 psi. In fact the supposedly 7 psi cap wouldn't seal at 5 psi (new one on order) so I used 3 psi !
Then I could easily HEAR the leak hissing away but couldn't see it, even spraying copious amounts of 'leak detector' (dilute washing up liquid!) on it. In the end I located it using a couple of feet of flexible conduit, one end to my ear, the other seeking leaks, and it was surprisingly accurate. Then I confirmed the spot with more leak detector.
The oil cooler mounts in front of the radiator, and where the leak is there is a displaced plastic spacer between them that might be the guilty party for causing the leak in the first place. Anyway it all needs to come out.
New radiator on order and should be here in a couple of days, meanwhile I'll pull the old one out and probably skin a few knuckles!
awemawson:
After a quick lunch I attacked the leaking radiator.
Firstly the 'bonnet' came off (blooming heavy 4 mm plate!) which required the vertical exhaust pipe and air pre-filter to be removed. Then I undid the top and bottom hoses. As I thought, the top hose was a doddle, the bottom hose required a bit of ingenuity with a flexible 1/4" drive.
Then, having undone the four bolts actually fixing the radiator, and slackening the four that hold the oil cooler I was able to remove the radiator itself sliding it upwards using a bit of Egyptian technology using levers and wedges.
Once out it was evident that this radiator has given problems in the past and has had at least one tube squashed and soldered, also there is evidence of 'sealant' having been used in the coolant. At least this justifies my decision to replace rather than try and repair the radiator.
hermetic:
I used to use a radiator recoring service in Scarborough, about half the price of a new one, but I doubt he is still in business! The last job he did for me was actually the Fordson major rad! That rad needs at least recoring, what is the cost for a new one Andrew?
Phil
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