Author Topic: It's BIG, Yellow and digs holes! JCB 3CX Project 8 is joining the Tractor Shed  (Read 37260 times)

Offline awemawson

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I sincerely hope that you are off the mark there, but I must admit that valve block on the JCB803 (which I assume you are referring back to?) did come to mind when I was trying to tighten the fitting !

Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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A bit more trivia done this afternoon - the replacement Astray arrived and was fitted:

Is it a Merc, or is it a Mk1 Mondeo, or is it a JCB - answer - it is all three !

Just a case of sliding it in!

(Previous one wouldn't stay closed)
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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More trivia: The replacement starter battery arrived bang on cue. 'Enduroline' brand from Tayna Batteries on eBay. Over the years I've had probably a dozen starter batteries from them and they have been consistently good in terms of price and performance. This one comes with a 4 year warranty. And as ever with them they are delivered next day.

Quite a palaver getting the old one out and fitting the new - on the 3CX the battery is high up in the engine compartment below the windscreen, and both halves of the bonnet have to be removed having first removed the exhaust stack and the air input pre-filter, then the battery has to be lugged up over the loader arms - quite high up really and it's a heavy old lump.

The positive battery connector was covered in 'acid fuzz' and was on the point of disintegrating, which it did as I unscrewed its bolt. Cut off with a battery powered angle grinder and a lug crimped onto cleaned up cable and new post style connector fitted.

Always smear your lead acid battery terminals and connectors with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to stop this happening.
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline russ57

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That's certainly better taken out of the starting lottery, cold weather or not.

Russ

-russ


Offline tom osselton

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Wow maybe you didn’t need a new battery looking at the terminal, I had a friend once that had a dead battery but turned out to be oxide on the terminals preventing the battery from passing any juice to the starter.

Offline awemawson

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The glass for the instrument panel arrived today so I set to trying to remove the console arrangement. Rather too many plastic mouldings each mutually trapped by the location all on top of the actual metal panel that I needed to release.

Eventually out of desperation, using broad blunt paint scrapers and putty knives and the inherent flexibility of the upper moulding I was able to gingerly ease it over the metal bringing it forward for access.

But my troubles weren't over even then. The panel has two Sumitomo loom connectors, a 10 way and a 14 way, and try as I could I could not release them. I could see the locking mechanism release but no way were they parting using normal forces. In the end I had to jam a screwdriver between the male and female cylindrical part, and using screwdriver bending amounts of force got them apart. Much marring to the plastic, and the 24 pin female has cracked, but they seem to go together still, and the contacts look clean as a whistle.

So - panel out and on the bench, dismantled, broken bezel bits glued, rubber gasket recovered and reused (should have bought a new one as it's rather ragged) and assembled with the new glass.

Then it was a case of removing, testing, and refitting the gazzillion pea bulbs in this thing ready for re-installation hopefully tomorrow.

Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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This morning I managed to re-assemble the instrument console - putting it back was easier than removing it though.

Also a bit more trivia - I re-fitted the near side door catch cover. This was floating on the floor in all the detritus and I found it when mucking out. The 6 mm screw that holds it had been sheared off so it was a case of drilling out the stub and re-tapping - only one 3.7 mm drill died in the process !

 
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline Pete.

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Your attention to detail is inspiring Andrew. Many people would have blown it out with an air line and silicone glued a piece of plastic over the instruments. We all know that ain't happening here :D

Offline awemawson

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If it's worth doing it's worth doing properly . . . . or so I was taught anyway . . . . . thanks for the kind comment Pete.
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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Another day of trivial fixes:

Firstly I replaced the broken rear light cluster - fairly straight forward - the only complication being the the heavy steel guard that surrounds it is held on by four 8 mm bolts into thread clips which were rather crusty but did survive the experience.

(Well ACTUALLY firstly I had my flu jab which delayed things !)

Then I took delivery of the copy of the Operators Manual that I had had printed. There was a very trampled, wet and soggy copy on the floor of the cab, and although I carefully dried it and cleaned as much mud off as possible decided a re-print was called for. I already had a .PDF copy that was virtually the same - same part number but there ARE differences !

As it's 190 pages I really wanted it printed double sided on heavy paper and decently bound - 80 gsm and spiral bindings don't last long when you are thumbing through them. Although I have the kit to spiral bind printing double sided always seems to go wrong for me somehow  :scratch: So I decided to 'outsource' the job to Viking Print House who did it on 100 gsm paper and 'Velobound' it. (Rigid riveted plastic bar down front and back.

I'm so impressed that I think I will have the workshop manual printed out by them again on heavy paper double sided, but ring binder bound as it's 702 sides ! I only have it electronically and a paper copy is much easier to work from I find.

Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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Today I got a few hours to drain the coolant and re-fill with Anti-Freeze of a known type.

Now we all know what happens when we put anti freeze in - it seeks out every possible weak spot in the system - well I don't think it had to do much seeking - there was a BIG leak  :bang:

You may recall me saying that when I got the machine the coolant was too low in the expansion bottle for me to draw off a sample to test - well this is probably why ! As I drained what was in the system undoing the bottom hose I did take a sample and my refractometer tester said that it was protected to below minus 25 so any damage is unlikely to be by frost.

Having initially started the engine after re-filling to try and circulate the new of course water has splashed EVERYWHERE and definitely determining where it's coming from  isn't easy until things dry off a bit.

However I'm fairly certain that it's the radiator itself sadly. Fortunately it looks fairly easy to remove (two hoses and four bolts) but I think I'll try a pressure test on it in situ before I remove it. The expansion bottle pressure cap is a 7 psi one so a low pressure test I think.

Just to rub salt in the wound, the rev counter that got a new glass the other day was working happily showing approx 1000 rpm, then as I watched it it fell to zero, and came back, then back to zero - the hours meter that's embodied within it still works, but my money is on a poor contact on the alternator 'W' terminal after all the coolant splashing about in the engine bay.
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline mc

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Worst part of getting the radiator out, is the hoses. Top and bleed hoses you can take out with the radiator, but the lower one is a nightmare if it's got a transmission cooler attached.
Transmission cooler should be held onto the radiator cowling with a big P-clip. Last one I done, I left the cooler in place, as it's easier to wrestle with the bottom radiator hose and P-clip bolt, than the two transmission oil pipes.

Rev counter will likely be a wiring issue. I've yet to come across an older JCB where the chassis wiring isn't falling apart.

Offline awemawson

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Well Morray I hope that you are wrong ! The top hose is a dodle as fully exposed, the bottom hose is a bit of a wriggle but looks quite possible with a socket on an extension. I'll probably need to slacken off the mounting bolts for the oil cooler to slide the rad upwards.

. . . . because . . . this morning I proved the leak to the radiator. I removed the expansion pipe from the system to the expansion tank and fitted a PCL air fitting to it, and added a short length of 1/2" pipe to where it had been, which I blanked off with a bar end and Jubilee clip. Then having once more drained the system using the bottom hose I attached a small regulator and brought the system up to about 5 psi. In fact the supposedly 7 psi cap wouldn't seal at 5 psi (new  one on order) so I used 3 psi !

Then I could easily HEAR the leak hissing away but couldn't see it, even spraying copious amounts of 'leak detector' (dilute washing up liquid!) on it. In the end I located it using a couple of feet of flexible conduit, one end to my ear, the other seeking leaks, and it was surprisingly accurate. Then I confirmed the spot with more leak detector.

The oil cooler mounts in front of the radiator, and where the leak is there is a displaced plastic spacer between them that might be the guilty party for causing the leak in the first place. Anyway it all needs to come out.

New radiator on order and should be here in a couple of days, meanwhile I'll pull the old one out and probably skin a few knuckles!

« Last Edit: November 01, 2021, 04:56:35 PM by awemawson »
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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After a quick lunch I attacked the leaking radiator.

Firstly the 'bonnet' came off (blooming heavy 4 mm plate!) which required the vertical exhaust pipe and air pre-filter to be removed. Then I undid the top and bottom hoses. As I thought, the top hose was a doddle, the bottom hose required a bit of ingenuity with a flexible 1/4" drive.

Then, having undone the four bolts actually fixing the radiator, and slackening the four that hold the oil cooler I was able to remove the radiator itself sliding it upwards using a bit of Egyptian technology using levers and wedges.

Once out it was evident that this radiator has given problems in the past and has had at least one tube squashed and soldered, also there is evidence of 'sealant' having been used in the coolant. At least this justifies my decision to replace rather than try and repair the radiator.
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline hermetic

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I used to use a radiator recoring service in Scarborough, about half the price of a new one, but I doubt he is still in business! The last job he did for me was actually the Fordson major rad! That rad needs at least recoring, what is the cost for a new one Andrew?
Phil
Man who says it cannot be done should not disturb man doing it! https://www.youtube.com/user/philhermetic/videos?

Offline awemawson

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£350 plus the VAT Phil, and hopefully next day delivery.
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline tom osselton

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Years ago I used automotive filler (bondo) in a pinch I was surprised it held but it never leaked again.

Offline awemawson

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Classic remedy for a leaking car radiator was a couple of spoonfuls of Scott’s Porridge Oats. It often actually worked !
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline hermetic

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OUCH! a bit more than I used to pay, lets hope it is a copper one! Still, when you have finished you will know it is right and reliable, and you are adding value! Better a new rad than a new head gasket!!
Phil
Man who says it cannot be done should not disturb man doing it! https://www.youtube.com/user/philhermetic/videos?

Offline hermetic

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Porrige oats, I have heard that was a cure for weepy stean boiler rivets as well, got a breakdown call out to an Austin 1100 in the distant past, and when I got there the rad top tank was full of scrambled egg, I didnt have the heart to tell them that you are only supposed to use the egg white!
Phil
Man who says it cannot be done should not disturb man doing it! https://www.youtube.com/user/philhermetic/videos?

Offline awemawson

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Sodium Silicate syrup is another trick that actually works. It was the classic way of curing the 'Ford Porous Block' syndrome of the 'Pre-Force' Ford 3000 and 4000 blocks.

. . . .twiddling my thumbs as new radiator hasn't yet arrived . . . I don't do patience  :clap:
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline mattinker

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I remember, some 45years ago, I fixed "temporarily" a leaky top tank on my '52 landrover with glaziers putty, I forgot about it and it lasted a very long time!

Cheers, Matthew

Offline Pete.

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Drop of sikaflex up the core tube would sort it :D

Offline awemawson

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The trick used to be to grip the offending core tube with snipe nosed pliers and roll it up either side of the burst to form a seal. Once rolled grip the rolls again with the snipe nose piers and squash them to form the seal.

(This is still a useful trick to know when crossing the desert with no radiator shops for miles as it uses no materials ! )
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline awemawson

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The new radiator arrived at lunchtime, but to my horror when I unpacked it it was damaged  :bang:

However it really only was superficial - the squashed port for the bottom hose dressed out OK and the crushed fins probably don't make a jot of difference to the cooling. OK I could demand a replacement but there seemed little point. I've told them and sent pictures but life is too short to get too excited!

So I fitted it, did a low pressure leak down test with air, then took the risk putting in the rest of my antifreeze solution, having lost half of it on the floor with the last escapade!

No leaks apparent so far - I've run the engine at a fast idle (1250 rpm) for an hour, with the front of the radiator blocked off with a towel, but can't get it warm to give it a true test. The gauge just perceptibly moves off it's cold resting point - but it is quite a chilly day. 

Not put the bonnet etc back as it'll be easier to change all the filters with them off.

Incidentally, the rev counter that stopped working in the last 'coolant change' episode is now working fine. Either the coolant that was gushing out and splashing everywhere from the split radiator got into the alternator and stopped the W terminal working, or as I now think more likely, the Vee belt drive was wet with it and slipping.

 
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex