The Craftmans Shop > New from Old
It's BIG, Yellow and digs holes! JCB 3CX Project 8 is joining the Tractor Shed
vtsteam:
I have a burnt out plastic welder I'd like to repair. If you guys could advise on the heating wire (I'll open another thread) and on possibly repairing it, I'd greatly appreciate!
WeldingRod:
Worth a try! Pictures needed, though!
Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk
awemawson:
The 4 wheel drive output flange that carries the front prop shaft to the front axle differential has developed an oil leak. Entirely possible that this is my fault as I managed to over fill the synchro-shift gear box - and there are grave warnings about not doing this is the book of words - I suspect the excess pressure has reversed the lip seal lips.
Exactly the same construction as the pinion flange that I fixed in the front axle - there is a yoke that receives the UJ on the prop shaft, a special nut retaining the yoke which is torqued to a phenomenal torque, and a three lip seal that performs the actual sealing.
Having received the parts I thought I'd check if the yoke fits the special huge spanner that holds it still while doing up that nut, and sure enough, like the last one, the pattern part was too fat to fit the spanner, whereas the genuine part on the machine fits like a glove.
Last time I just trimmed it down with an angle grinder, but having prior warning I actually got to do some machining and reduced the width of the yoke by 4.25 mm on the Bridgeport. Much nicer than using the grinder!
So all ready to do the actual job but a few other jobs are ahead of it in the queue . . my bench is covered in a totally dismantled Stihl 023 chain saw waiting for crank shaft seals - then there's a friends generator to fix, and 18 stillages of logs to re-stack in the tractor shed - so probably a week or two before this gets done. But at least I'm prepared.
awemawson:
This afternoon I finally got round to changing the front output shaft seal. I'll be honest, I've been putting this off. Not over keen on rolling about on a concrete floor.
It was basically a repeat of doing the front axle pinion seal with the same issues that I had there - old seal reluctant to come out, universal joint needle rollers happy to discharge themselves all over the place but I got there in the end.
First thing to do was to drain the old transmission fluid, and the book method is to remove the gauze strainer bolted on sideways on the side of the assembly - worryingly the bolts were barely finger tight but the good news was that the cork gasket was in good condition as I'd overlooked buying a new one. Gauze was clean as a whistle but I blew it out anyway with an air line.
Without working over a pit it was actually impossible to use the big special spanner to hold the yoke still while unscrewing it's big retaining nut as the spanner clashed with other bits of JCB - probably OK if the gear box was on the bench but not in situ.
However my Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact driver unscrewed it reasonably happily so it wasn't a problem .
So job all done time to change the filter which according to the hand written date on it was last changed in 2002. :bugeye: In a bit of an awkward position but amazingly I was able to unscrew it by hand. New filter duly marked up with today's date and screwed home having oiled its rubber sealing ring.
According to the book this transmission takes 14 litres - so I put in 12 and dipped it. Bally thing was over filled. I ran the engine briefly to fill the filter but no still too full :bang:
So crawling back under again (repeatedly!) I loosened the strainer and must have drained off at least another litre before the dip stick was happy. As over filling was I think partially the cause of the seal failing it was important to get it right.
A big clear up of tools and a floor sweep and horror of horrors I found an oil seal reinforcing tubular spring of the sort that biases the seal lips onto the shaft - sinking feeling - would need a total repeat operation to refit the spring :bang:
However all was well - inspecting the seal that I had removed it's spring was missing - phew :clap:
So time to try it - a quick trip round the field in both two and four wheel drive - all seems to work - (but of course this yoke / prop shaft is rotated by the front axle in two wheel drive any way)
Left standing a couple of hours while I had a shower and supper (a nice gammon rasher :thumbup:) and so far no more pools of oils.
. . . so hopefully that's another job jobbed
Sorry no picture - I was too oily !
tom osselton:
--- Quote from: awemawson on June 20, 2022, 09:45:13 AM ---So not willing to chuck out a potentially repairable diesel level sensor I pulled it apart.
The break in the nichrome wire was very close to the riveted end connection - so after a bit of a clean up with brake cleaner I drilled out the riveted terminal connector, unravelled a bit of the resistance wire to give enough to wrap round the bolt that I replaced the rivet with, and screwed it all back together.
I bit of tin bashing on the box housing the resistance element to make it back to original shape (damage caused by me levering it out), and it looked almost presentable. Bending the wiper to give a bit better pressure I re-assembled it. bending it's fragile lugs back to retain the halves together.
A quick ohms test shows that it works - so it's been bagged up in the packaging of the replacement one and put on the shelf for next time.
--- End quote ---
Looks like a throttle for a toy race car control.
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