Author Topic: Beaver milling machine  (Read 88320 times)

Offline kvom

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #75 on: July 20, 2009, 08:59:48 AM »
If you are just moving the knee to provide clearance then just leaving the handle at the bottom works a charm.  Sometimes you need to use the knee adjustment if you want a hole drilled to a precise depth.  In that case I lower the drill bit to touch the work, then set the quill stop and zero the knee dial.  Then raise the quill and then the knee the depth of the hole.  The handle might be anywhere at that point.

Another way to drill a hole with a given depth is to touch the drill to the work, start the motor, and then  raise the knee the desired amount.  The only problem with this is that there is no tactile feedback as there is with the manual quill.  When I do this I use the knee handle to peck drill.

If you have a DRO on the quill then you don't need to use the knee for depth control.

For end milling, then you will normally use the knee to control the depth of cut.

Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #76 on: July 20, 2009, 09:16:14 AM »
Thanks for that, I shall re-read that several times until it has sunk in.... :ddb:

I'm just wiring the mill up to give the motors (3 of) a test....be back soon.... :)
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #77 on: July 20, 2009, 10:53:38 AM »

What makes the lever stay in the down position, or is it a case of putting it there manually after each adjustment.. :scratch:

Just trying to get a "handle" on what's needed..... :)

The wrench is a 12" long ratchet with a 7/8" socket on the end. There's a small lever that allows you to change directions of which way it rachets. Don't know if you Britts have a different name for it. The rachet allows you to place the handle anywere you want.

Bernd
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #78 on: July 20, 2009, 12:10:36 PM »
Thanks Bernd, that sounds like what I was thinking of. Seems like there are both ratchet and fixed types 

Got her wired up and running, sweet as a nut and very quiet which I was not expecting.

Sorted the bed x axis rapid speed motor switch that was hanging off the machine. Turned out to be dirty contacts that were arching. A quick spray with some contact cleaner and a good wipe over soon had that sorted out..

The slow speed transverse motor was not connected, the wires were snipped off inside the turret...Odd..?  Not done that yet.

But, the DOL (starter switch) keeps tripping out after she has been running for a short while. The motor is not at all warm, seems to run sweet enough so I suspected the switch unit.

Opened it up and it seems the thermal cutout is rated at 1.1 - 1.6 A. The motor is rated at 2.5A. Now I don't know much about 3 phase electrics but this does not seem right to me?
I suspect this switch is for the slow transverse motor and not the main spindle motor.

Therefore I need another starter switch.
Good job someone has just donated one to me, in fact it's a double so will do both the spindle and the slow transverse motor.
But it needs a 12V circuit to remotely operate it. Guess what I found hiding inside the knee, yup a 12V transformer....fancy that.... :)
Next question, what type of switch do we use for the 12V side? Surely not a household light switch......

There are a couple of other very minor issues to be sorted. But overall it seems to be in fine kettle so far.

Oh, nearly forgot, the draw bar is the wrong one. Needs machining to make it fit. that's if it's not too hard a material.
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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #79 on: July 20, 2009, 04:43:42 PM »
Can't you just swap the thermal cut out or isn't it the same type ?

Chances are it isn't as they make 10,001 different types.

John S.
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Offline CrewCab

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #80 on: July 20, 2009, 05:31:58 PM »
Sounds like your having fun Darren  :thumbup: ................. more piccy's please

Good looking Mill, I saw a Bridgy clone (Adcock & Shipley) working a while back and spreading butter was probably noisier ........... enjoy  :headbang:

CC

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #81 on: July 20, 2009, 05:35:56 PM »
Well it wasn't my genuine Bridgy then, that sounds like a boot polish tin being kicked down the Trent and Mersey canal towpath late on a Sunday night - in winter.

John S.
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #82 on: July 20, 2009, 06:41:33 PM »
Can't you just swap the thermal cut out or isn't it the same type ?

Chances are it isn't as they make 10,001 different types.

John S.

Fraid not John, totally different of course. Even worse, I was re-testing the units you gave me just to re-fresh my memory on the connections when suddenly all the magic escaped from one of the contractors.... :doh:
I only stuck 12V on it too, didn't get as far as 3ph.

Oh well.....but not to worry.....see next post in a mo.... :thumbup:
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #83 on: July 20, 2009, 06:43:14 PM »
Sounds like your having fun Darren  :thumbup: ................. more piccy's please

Good looking Mill, I saw a Bridgy clone (Adcock & Shipley) working a while back and spreading butter was probably noisier ........... enjoy  :headbang:

CC

Well I wouldn't say it's silent, but it is probably about the same or less than my Sealey mill. The 3ph rotary makes much more noise.
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #84 on: July 20, 2009, 06:52:54 PM »
Low and behold guess what came up on my local Freecycle just when you need it.

Quick reply and I was off, and this is what I came back with.....it was a take the lot job offer...





There were four starting contactors, the one marked Fan is the perfect rating for the mill motor..... :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:





This is a conveyor motor with a gearbox on it and a cutoff when you lift the lid switch, another contactor to suit....



Jammy sod eh..... :)

I'll wire one in tomorrow and see how the motor behaves then...... :dremel:
« Last Edit: July 20, 2009, 06:54:35 PM by Darren »
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #85 on: July 20, 2009, 07:43:57 PM »
The head,

This machine has been stood for quite some time by the look of things, well greased and gummed up. Some of the controls were so stiff it was difficult to work out what each was for. Or indeed if anything was amiss.

So some simple striping down, cleaning up and a little poke around inside to check it out and see how it all works.

Zero info to be found on the net, so some labelling for anyone who may come across this post.
I gather the BP is roughly the same ???? Comments welcome here....or anywhere for that matter.... :lol:

Glad to say I didn't find any problems and all seems to operate more freely now.

















« Last Edit: July 20, 2009, 07:55:43 PM by Darren »
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #86 on: July 20, 2009, 07:46:32 PM »
I forgot to say,

I connected the slow speed bed motor, the one you use to mill with and happy to report it too works fine...both ways too...

Seems very slow though and currently set on no3 of four speed.

Me thinks me has been milling on the Sealey a bit on the quick side....!!!   :doh: It worked though.... :ddb:
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #87 on: July 20, 2009, 08:57:54 PM »
I gather the BP is roughly the same ???? Comments welcome here....or anywhere for that matter.... :lol:

Glad to say I didn't find any problems and all seems to operate more freely now.











Pretty darn close there Darren.

What ever you don't use the quill feed on any drill bigger than 1/4" dia. I think that's how my quill drive got broke. The quill drive is more for a boring operation than drilling.

If you are going to be drilling big dia. holes then use either the manual quill feed or raise the knee if you have a power unit on that.

Bernd
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #88 on: July 21, 2009, 07:22:49 AM »


Edit, come to think about it the Herbert I saw may not have had a compound slide, just a hand wheel for the crosslide? I'm really not sure now you mention it Stew.
I focused more on the Ward at the time and I'm not sure about that either now....?

I had a good look at a that running herbert 2b last night. Impressive machine, but as suggested not really the thing for us types. Shame it was only £200.

He also had a twin precision herbert drill, that was very nice, asked £60 for it, I said ok but then he wavered about whether he really wanted to sell it.... :doh:
Very, very nice machine, you'd have to see one in the flesh to appreciate how a drill can get one so excited.... :)
« Last Edit: July 21, 2009, 07:30:01 AM by Darren »
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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #89 on: July 21, 2009, 08:29:30 AM »
Hi Darren

I take it was two drills close together side by side, if it was, again its a production machine I've seen banks of these drill up to 8 or more in a line, they were set up with different drill, taps etc the work was usualy jiged and the operator took the work through each drill in turn to make the product, very good machine, has it got a power feed and a tapping function, if it has bite his hand off for it.

Stew
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Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #90 on: July 21, 2009, 10:10:27 AM »
That's the one Stew, and a light for each just where you want it...

I let him know I would have it...just got to wait now and see what happens....I hate ummers and arreers...he offered it, I didn't ask.... :doh:
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #91 on: July 21, 2009, 10:36:08 AM »
On the Mill, changed the starter/contactor for one of the proper rating, it's a noisy bugger maybe it'll calm down.....or fry..... :lol:


But the mill motor seems fine and no tripping out so far....... :)
« Last Edit: July 21, 2009, 01:14:05 PM by Darren »
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #92 on: July 21, 2009, 06:23:08 PM »
I'm sure I've asked this before but I've forgotten the answer and the search engine turns up a blank... :(

Can key steel be milled, drilled without any problems?

Are you supposed to harden it afterwards or use as it comes.....?

I forgot to take a picture, sorry it would have helped.
I need a couple of dogs on my mill spindle to locate the arbour. I've just noticed they are missing. Is key steel what i should be using here?
 
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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #93 on: July 21, 2009, 06:32:50 PM »
Yes
Yes
No
Yes

John S.
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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #94 on: July 21, 2009, 06:36:49 PM »
Just to expand on John's lengthy tome above.

Yes Darren, you can machine, file and drill it. But don't harden it.

By the sounds of it, that is what you need. It is tough, but should fail if things go drastically wrong.

That is why it is called key steel, for making keys out of. Like for holding things on, similar to your flywheel on the diesel engine, if the engine stops suddenly, the key should shear, and stop the mass of the rotating flywheel from breaking the crankshaft.

John

Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #95 on: July 21, 2009, 06:42:09 PM »
Thanks guys, I'll get a bar ordered pronto......seems I won't need to do much milling as it comes in the correct dimensions.... :ddb:

Just cut and drill then....can't be bad... :)
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #96 on: July 30, 2009, 08:36:04 PM »
Could someone with a Briggy please tell me if the toothed intermediate wheel in the head between the pulleys wobbles...... :ddb:


Cos if it doesn't then I need a new bearing, but it may be that it's supposed to be loose..... :scratch:

I can move mine about by hand.....can you.... :wave:
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Offline Darren

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #97 on: July 31, 2009, 07:49:03 AM »
I found this diagram on the net,



I have a slight vibration issue, it's only small but if it can be cured then all the better.
The problem seems to be part 25, the back gear bull wheel, this is bouncing around merrily.

Looking at the diagram it seems that it should be held by two bearings, parts 59 & 63. So I assume at least one of these has given up the ghost.

If someone could check their machine and see if the backgear is solidly mounted I would appreciate it before I start ripping things apart.... :thumbup:

Also while I'm at it I might as well get a new toothed belt. As my machine is not a Bridgeport, but a close copy I can't be sure if they are exactly the same part.
Does anyone have any info that could help? Do I simply measure up and go to a belt specialist?

« Last Edit: July 31, 2009, 07:59:57 AM by Darren »
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Offline kvom

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #98 on: July 31, 2009, 08:56:59 AM »
Mine doesn't budge.

Offline Bernd

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Re: Beaver milling machine
« Reply #99 on: July 31, 2009, 09:21:13 AM »
And I can't get at mine because I'd have to take the whole top off. I don't have a cover on the side (item #85 ) like they show in the parts diagram. Sorry.

Bernd
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