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Milling Machine Stop

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philf:

--- Quote from: djc on January 19, 2021, 10:21:51 AM ---That is very good.

Could I venture to suggest some enhancements?

Consider replacing the securing nut with a Kipp handle as shown in the top photo. Put a light spring between T-nut and stop base so it is easy to install. Consider something to stop relative rotation between T-nut and stop base again for ease of installation (a long T-nut with a dowel might do or extend the existing location pins). Bore the other end of the rod and glue in some 3mm silver steel for small parts.

One could perhaps argue that the stop collar is unnecessary. As long as you are not milling away that part of the stock which the rod touches, you can always slide it back into position before removing the part from the vice.

--- End quote ---

Thanks DJC, (& Ade & Steve & Howsitwork)

I haven't got another Kipp handle in M8 and, to be honest it doesn't take 1/2 a minute to fix to the table.

I have something similar to what you're suggesting on my rear toolpost knurling tool although using a socket screw rather than a Kipp so that I can knurl close to the chuck. You can see one of the pins to keep the tee nut lined up



The stop collar is a result of experience where, on very small workpieces, the cutter would hit the stop so I've withdrawn it - then a burr stops the stop going back exactly where it should be.

Phil.

Brass_Machine:
Very sharp looking!  :bow:

philf:
The stops have been breeding.

There have been occasions when I could have used one on my manual mill and one on my CNC at the same time and, rather than sit watching TV, I thought I'd go down to the workshop to make another. In fact I made 2 - one for me and one for my friend. (We worked together for over thirty years and are now each building the same loco so when we're making parts for that we often make two - one for each of us.)



Whilst I had the blacking kit set up again I thought I'd black a small diameter turning tool I made some time ago.



I made this because I need to make a pile of stainless steel studs for the loco and the diameter - 2.78mm - not a diameter easy to come by.

I did have several lengths of 1/8" so made the tool to turn it down. It's very easy to use and gives excellent results. The brass bush is interchangeable depending on the stock size.

There is a fine pitch screw to adjust the cut and a grub screw underneath the cutting end of the tool to get the tool on centre-height.





Here's a batch of the studs ready for my friend.



And the cylinder they're for. (The nuts are temporary and scale nuts will be fitted with a smaller a/f.)



Phil.

vtsteam:
Another great tool Phil, and some lovely photos of what you've been doing.  :bow:

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