Boxford 8" shaper

[Darren]

Of which there will be two of,

As long as it runs it seems fine Chris...

[raynerd]

Wahooo - something that has gone right with this shaper for a change!   

I`ll keep you posted.

[NickG]

Yep, just 2 big capacitors in there. That's the sort of motor I got for my lathe, gives it a higher starting torque. Should be good. 

[raynerd]

Well chaps - have started getting somewhere  and then it all went wrong 

Well it isn`t that bad. Basically I had to remove the drive pully from the old 3ph motor to get it onto my new motor and in the process I managed to snap one of the pully walls. It was a nice clean break so I decided to stick it back together with JB welds. Due to the pully not aligning as it did on the old motor, I had to use brackets to mount the motor. It has been a REAL pain in the arse as the confined space to work in is unbeliveble and the mounting brackets have made the job a whole lot harder! Anyway, camera in hand, I went around to my grandparents tonight (where the shaper is now situated, no room at my house) with the intent to tighten the final bolts and turn it on! ....and so I did and it run like a dream! Went inside to get my grandad to have a look, he watched it for about 1 minute and then bob - something went and it all froze. It was the damn JB welds giving way and the pulley spliting and the band slipping off.

Well could have been worse - at least this way I will have to make a new pully but will be able to make it so that I don`t require the mounting brackets (that incidently took a good while to make!!) but this will allow me to hook it back up quicker and also make it neater.

So it runs and it looked to run really well! I took my camera but it didn`t run for long enough to get any footage. So, weekend project is making this pully and hopefully should have it running for early next week.

Can I ask, what is the best way to remove the pully from the motor spindle. I tried giving it a tap with a steel bar but it doesn`t seem to want to come. It is on really tighty and the keyway is not in use, it is held by a grub screw but it seems tighter on this spindle than it did on the original motor. Don`t care about smashing it particularly but I don`t want to damage the motor.

Chris

[SKIPRAT]

Hi Chris

I dont know if this post will help you or not last time i was faced with a stuck pulley i borrowed a 3 legged puller from a mate most garage mechanics or mantainence guys have one in the toolkit . also seeing as the pulley i was taking off was made of alloy so i applied a lttle gentle heat with a blowlamp (different rates of material expansion etc.) The other method is by making up a device called "a Strongback" and that is best explained by a drawing (must get a free copy of " COC ") basically it consists of 2 bits of hefty flat bar. 2 bits of studding ,4 nuts and a packing piece one of the flat bars has a notch in it to go over the motor shaft behind the pulley two holes drilled in it for the studding  and the other flat bar has two holes for the studding and goes at the front of the pulley between this and the shaft end there is a packing piece slightly smaller in diameter than the motor shaft the nuts on the studding are tightened up evenly applying a force on the pulley and jacking the pulley off i have used this method in a past lfe for removing pulleys and bearings on shafts up to 6 inch in diameter hope you have success in removing the pulley

Cheers Paul

[John Hill]

Chris, if the busted pulley is solid enough you could drill and tap a couple of holes in it parallel to the shaft then use these to jack it off the shaft.

You could probably repair that pulley by making a plate to screw on the outside then you could put that chip back in secured by your favourite industrial adhesive and the plate would support it.

[raynerd]

Two great ideas there John - cheers for that!!! 

LOL, now I don`t know whether to repair it, which would be much easier, or replace it which would make a neater job (but not any more functional)!!

Time to have a think. I`m tempted to repair as it would remove the risk of breaking the motor removing it. It also eliminates the need to spend time making the replacement. Really appreciate your post.

Only thing is, the wall of the pulley isn`t too thick so not much material to screw the plate too before it would stick through into the V groove?!

[John Hill]

 Chris, if you can arrange it the plate is screwed to the pulley with just a few screws below the level of the groove.  The are no screws going into the broken chip as the plate just supports the back of the chip which is really held in place with adhesive.

[raynerd]

Hi John, I`ll have to take a look tomorrow but the V groove is pretty deep and the side of the chip is the side with like an extended shank so you can`t "see" below the depth of the groove. You could make a plate with a large hole to fit over the shank and back the walls but the plate would be the depth of the groove. If it was the other side I`d just make a full size plate and screw into the solid of the pully but on the side it is, there is only "wall" to screw into. I hope this makes sense, I need to look thought myself tomorrow so there is probably a way to get around it that I am missing... I`ll let you know.

[John Hill]

I guess you could not get the plate on anyway while the pulley is stuck on the motor?

[dsquire]

Well chaps - have started getting somewhere  and then it all went wrong 
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Can I ask, what is the best way to remove the pully from the motor spindle. I tried giving it a tap with a steel bar but it doesn`t seem to want to come. It is on really tighty and the keyway is not in use, it is held by a grub screw but it seems tighter on this spindle than it did on the original motor. Don`t care about smashing it particularly but I don`t want to damage the motor.

Chris

Chris

After you have taken the grub screw out that is holding the pulley on get your flashlight and check and see if there is another grub screw in the hole that is holding the pulley on.

The first grub screw was to hold the pulley tight and the 2nd grub screw was only to keep the first one from loosening off. I learened this the hard way a few years back and always have remembered to check that if a grub screw is involved.

Hope this tip helps.

Cheers 

Don

[Stilldrillin]

Blummin good thinking Don! 

I`d forgotten..... I was caught out by double grubs some time ago..... 

David D

[Darren]

Well remembered Don, I've just been caught on that one with my pillar drill and it was nothing to do with a pulley.

Would I have remembered so I could tell Chris.....nope.....

[NickG]

Yeah, I remember this too now you've come to mention it! Chris, didn't you take this pulley off the old motor though? It shouldn't really be such a tight fit, although I seem to remember mine being tight on my lathe aswell. The puller would be the best bet I think, two tapped holes, a bar and a screw to push on the shaft and jack it off.

Nick

[raynerd]

Cheers chaps - regarding the double grub screw, I`ll try and remember that one for future but nope, this is just held by the one. John, yes sorry, it was late last night when I was replying without the motor infront of me and your right, it is on t`other side so I`ll have to remove the pully and make a new one. To be honest, other than the hastle of removing and making a new one, it will "situate" the motor better in the frame without the need for the brackets so I`ll go down this route.

I`ll take some pics and post them up here - this will be my first true necessary build. I`ve been going to RDG nearly every other week for the last 6 months and I always buy a chunk of ally or brass so I`ve built up quite a collection. I have a couple of nice thick rounds of ally I could use as well as steel but I think the ally will be easier to work with. I`ll keep you informed and thanks for your input.

[rleete]

BUY A NEW PULLEY!  Do NOT attempt a repair, unless it is welded by someone that knows what they are doing.  Most motors spin at 1360 RPM or higher.  Spinning puts a lot of force on the rim (radially outwards), and the belt puts stress on the sides perpendicular to that.  The result (as you saw) is the flange busting off again.  If it happens at the wrong time, and you or someone else is in the wrong place, you could have a nasty injury.  On something that spins faster, the failure is quicker and sometimes more catastrophic.

With electronics, the worst thing is to let out the magic smoke.  With humans (and pets), the worst thing is to let out the magic red jelly.  Don't risk it.

[NickG]

You can buy pulleys from machine mart by the way!

[raynerd]

Thanks for the words of warning. I am making my own and should have it finished shortly.

[raynerd]

Well I finished the new pully in less than a couple of hours. The task was eased and I was more confident by the fact that I had made two pullys before now for the X2 belt drive conversion project. So I just followed the method I used for those, I just ground a new tool for the profile of the pully walls. It turned out really well and the Boxford runs so my pully was a success!! With my new pully, I also made allowance for the motor spindle being further out compared to the original. This way the pully sits closer to the motor housing and means that I can totally do away with the motor brackets to fix it to the housing. This makes it much more solid and sits just like the original did using the same mounting points. I`m chuffed to mint balls...







I`ll post some videos later of the shaper running in terms of the ram but I now have my next issue which is getting the damn bed to move!! It is currently right at the end of its travel next to the opperator (front?) side of the ways and I can`t get it to go back the other way, either power feed or manual! 

I`ve downloaded the manual from here: http://www.neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books/Boxford%20Shaper/Boxford%208%20Inch%20Shaper.pdf

Theses shapers were fitted with a horizontal auto-feed as standard but the vertical was an add-on. I was really pleased as I have identified that mine definately has vertical auto-feed as well. That being said, I can`t get either to work! I can get both the lead screws to turn but the bed is not moving along the way, it is just stuck right at the end! Anyone any idea....?

From the manual "

The table can be traversed horizontally towards or away from the operator by hand, with the operating handle fitted to the upper
feed shaft of the carriage, and its position regulated by means of the micrometer dial engraved in .001" (see fig. 5). The table moves
on the carriage on dovetail ways and has an adjustable gib. The table can be raised or lowered by hand, with the operating handle
fitted to the lower feed shaft of the carriage. Before lowering the table, the table support at the front lower end of the table should
be unlocked. Power feed is provided for the horizontal traverse of the table and is controlled by the knob at the top of the feed housing.
If required, power feed can be fitted for the vertical movement of the carriage as an extra, which should be specified when the
machine is ordered. The carriage carrying the table and providing the vertical movement is fitted with dovetail ways and adjustable gib, and can
be locked in any position with the box key. The front table support can also be locked and provides an additional support for the table when horizontal movement only is required. The cross feed nut runs off the leadscrew thread before the limit of horizontal movement of the standard table is reached to
prevent damage if the machine is left running with a power feed engaged. This safety feature cannot be included when the swivel
table is fitted, nor does it apply to the vertical power feed. It is suggested these features should only be fitted when skilled personnel
will use the machine.

Power feed for the table is obtained by using the knob on top of the feed housing. This has four positions, two feed and two neutral or no feed positions. The usual practice is to fee d the table during the return or non cutting stroke of the ram. To feed the table towards the operating position of the machine, the feed indicator plate should be set with the box key to the A or lower scal e on the feed plate and the feed knob set with the letter A
facing the operating position of the machine. as in fig, 7. To feed the table away from the operating position o f the
machine, the feed indicator plate should be set to the B or upper scale and the feed knob set with the letter B facing the operating
position. With machines fitted for power vertical feed this is obtained by unscrewing the knurled locking screw on the feed housing and
rotating the assembly 180° when the vertical feed will be engaged. It is not possible to engage the vertical and horizontal feeds at one
and the same time. Five feeds can be selected from the feed plate in increments of .0025" per division, adjustment being made by slackening the
feed adjusting screw with the box key and moving the feed arm over the scale on the bush, see fig. 7"

[NickG]

Well done Chris, good job on the pulley.

Has the bed not just come off it's screw .. i.e. been wound too far at some point?

NIck

[raynerd]

Hi Nick, I`m going to have some time looking at it again today but It didn`t look to be as it was at the other side of the travel, fully screwed through. I have a feeling I have not engaged it by selecting the correct feed position on the feed plate.

Chris

[Darren]

Been thinking about it Chris, but a bit difficult not knowing the machine or having it in front of me.

I wondered if the gibs were locked up, but you say you can turn the hand wheels?

[raynerd]

Hey guys, I managed to sort it out. Basically it had come off the threaded lead screw at the front end, the lead screw has no threading at the end as a safety feature and so that is doesn`t carry the table into the gearing! Obviously at the other end it would just come off the thread. I had thought about this myself and had tried pushing it but with no luck earlier today. After reading Darrens thoughts about the Gibs I realised I should slacken them right off to give me more play and try and lock the table back onto the thread. I didn`t think it had worked as the travel is so slow (which I realise is right for a good finish on these machines) but it took me a while to notice it was moving.

  Found it a home (grandparents) and didn`t sell it!
  New 1ph motor installed
  New pully installed
  Table now traversing on the horizontal and vertical power feeds


To do:

1. Lock on the swivel table and mount the vice
2. Buy/make and install a tool holder (I have one but it is much much too big - maybe mod it?)
3. Check it all over again
4. Make some swarf....

Thanks for all the replies so far on this thread. It has been really helpful - I think sometimes it is just nice to write things down and it helps you mull through your ideas yourself as well as all the excellent replies you get back 

By the way I have obviously been reading the manual for this and I`m really chuffed to find that this shaper has both the additional add-ons that were available. It has the vertical power feed which is not standard and also the swivel table, rather than the fixed. Again, both of these were add-ons when originally purchased.    I didn`t have a clue about this when I first got it so quite nice supprises.

Vids and pics to come soon - with it not being at my house I need to make a concious effort to remember to take the camera!
Chris

[NickG]

Great stuff Chris.

Typically I used to have some bits from a shaper but had no use for it so donated it to club - sods law 

[Darren]

You got some really nice features with that shaper Chris.....if you even need or want to move it on give me a shout.......

Now lets see some pic's