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3D printer Ender 3 pro oval hole problem
Joules:
Remember "blob" size, speed, direction of travel and clearance. Outside edges, slightly under extrude so your corners and retractions don't have massive blobs. Inside edges, especially on smaller detail have the blob dragged towards the centre of the hole, so nearly always come in undersized/distorted. Trial parts, make allowance in your model, it gets more critical as you reduce nozzle size (or wear in the nozzle) and chase those finer detailed prints.
Be amazed it works at all....
Oooh Will you jammy bugger, nice plasma cutter....
Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: mc on April 13, 2020, 08:03:10 AM ---...
The other option is adding a BL touch, which is something I keep considering, but I keep seeing mixed reviews about them. Plus there is a huge variation in prices depending on brand/source, and nobody seems to know how much they vary in quality/repeatability.
I upgraded mine last week to the SKR Mini E3 board (I opted for the integrated driver version), and the BigTreeTech 3.5 TFT.
The noisiest thing now are the cooling fans, with only a slight hum of the steppers at certain speeds. It's bizarre not hearing it home until you hear a switch click!
I wasn't that impressed with the TFT, but now I've updated it to the latest firmware with the unified graphics, it's far better. I do like how you can switch it between touchscreen and LCD mode, you just need to make sure you connect all the cables.
The E3 board is still running whatever firmware it shipped with (I really can't be bothered going down the software compiling rabbit hole just now to change something that's working fine!).
My next upgrade is a MicroSwiss extruder/hotend, which is currently in the post somewhere between the USA and here...
--- End quote ---
I have the BLTouch. Works well for me... even with having one, you still should upgrade the bed springs.
The SKR mini E3 and the 3.5 TFT are 2 of the best mods to date. So quiet!
I almost went with a MicroSwiss... but GulfCoast Robotics has an all metal hot end for much cheaper. I ended up getting that, works fantastic.
Eric
mc:
--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on April 17, 2020, 09:28:14 AM ---I have the BLTouch. Works well for me... even with having one, you still should upgrade the bed springs.
The SKR mini E3 and the 3.5 TFT are 2 of the best mods to date. So quiet!
I almost went with a MicroSwiss... but GulfCoast Robotics has an all metal hot end for much cheaper. I ended up getting that, works fantastic.
Eric
--- End quote ---
Have you got a genuine BLTouch, or a copy?
I opted for MicroSwiss as it happened to be in stock when I ordered, but it's still stuck in the USPS system :-/
I hope it turns up soon, as I'm wanting to try printing some TPU.
The other option I considered was the Triangle labs copy, as a mate uses one, but I thought I'd support the original version.
Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: mc on April 17, 2020, 11:46:16 AM ---
Have you got a genuine BLTouch, or a copy?
I opted for MicroSwiss as it happened to be in stock when I ordered, but it's still stuck in the USPS system :-/
I hope it turns up soon, as I'm wanting to try printing some TPU.
The other option I considered was the Triangle labs copy, as a mate uses one, but I thought I'd support the original version.
--- End quote ---
I assume it is genuine. I got it from Creality with the metal bracket for the ender 3 and the jumper for the cable. With the mini E3, there is no need for the jumper.
Will be adding linear rails and a second Z axis stepper/leadscrew in the next couple of weeks
picclock:
@Will_D
The hole size issue is a tricky one - hence the stl to allow compensation for the small sizes in design.
The bottom layer (possibly 2) is likely to be inaccurate due to the head height adjustment. In order to get it to stick to the build plate these layers are often overextruded, so when measuring size its important to ignore these (see elephants foot).
It could also be that the filament extrusion is set too high. Easy to do a quick check by marking the filament with a pen about 120mm from the extruder, then extruding 100mm, and measure how much over.
The way you measure the hole size is also relevent. Generally I use some telescopic gauges for sizes 6mm and above. For sizes below that some ground rod will give an idea.
FWIW my sizes were good to 5mm, but below that they will all need adjustment. And if you look at the picture you will see the 1mm hole was just a solid.
Good luck with your calibration. FWIW, I think these are excellent printers and really good value for money.
I'm currently printing a mount for my E3D v6 head so I can hope to do higher temperature filaments. In reality the bed heater is nbg for anything over 120C, hence the need for a silicon pad heater. I've ordered a 500W mains powered version which should sort out any issues.
Best Regards
picclock
PS just read your post in another thread about destroyed prints. As was mentioned cables snagging the frame are a very good candidate, but I have had this happen when the filament gets snagged, normally trapped under a layer on the reel. I saw a print for an anti snagging device on thingiverse.
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