Author Topic: Resurrection of a CFEI 100 KVA Induction Furnace (Read 224507 times)

Sea.dog · « **Reply #300 on:** May 26, 2020, 05:33:35 PM »

Only if you're having problems with your hair, Phil

awemawson · « **Reply #301 on:** May 26, 2020, 05:42:45 PM »

Glad to hear that Phil, as Terry has completed all the joints, and will return to give it all a full coat with, again, emphasis on the joints, but covering everything, tomorrow. It was nice and warm today so it went on very nicely.

Meanwhile I built up the new 3 phase sub-panel ready for installation, and stripped the paint off some more 50 mm box section ready for mountings for the panel, water panel, and various sockets.

Later we laid the flow and return pipes between the bore hole, pump house and foundry. The return goes to the over flow pipe under the man hole cover via a 90 degree bend - no doubt this will confuse someone in the future! But the flow is at the moment not yet connected to the pump. Their ends now emerge in the foundry waiting for me to make up their termination panel.

hermetic · « **Reply #302 on:** May 27, 2020, 06:26:05 AM »

Sorry seadog, all I heard was the whooshing noise as that went straight over my head, although I do have to wear one of my (daughters old tights) hairnets when I use Chromapol....there have been messy disasters!
Phil

awemawson · « **Reply #303 on:** May 27, 2020, 10:30:42 AM »

Today's task: form supports for the electricity sub-panel, water panel and 3 phase sockets. I cut six suitable lengths of the 50 mm box section that I cleaned up yesterday, welded a pair for the sub-panel, but before I could use the grinder or welder near the flow and return water pipes they needed protecting from sparks.

Simple solution (I thought!) slip a bit of scaffold tube over them. It wasn't until I was welding that the weight of the scaffold tube managed to kink the MDPE pipe

It's no big deal - both these pipes emanate from 90 degree elbows at sub-ground level so are quite short - I'll just replace them as I'm not short of 32 mm MDPE pipe. They'd probably be fine having been unkinked, but silly to take the risk.

Then I drilled and tapped for the electricity sub-panel and wired in both ends of it's feed. Irritatingly I found that the brand new 30 mA RCD trip was faulty. It doesn't trip when it's test button is pressed - replacement on the way tomorrow

hermetic · « **Reply #304 on:** May 27, 2020, 04:13:56 PM »

"I found that the brand new 30 mA RCD trip was faulty. It doesn't trip when it's test button is pressed"

Doesn't tend to boost ones confidence in modern electrical equipment does it? Probably made in China. I wonder if it would have tripped in fault conditions, given that the test button simulates a fault, one would suspect not, meaning of course that the faulty circuit would have no upstream protection except the 100amp cutout fuse. God bless the IET, they really know what they are doing by getting rid of those dangerous old rewirable fuses that always fail safe!

Under the old IEE regs, written by engineers, not equipment manufacturers,

"No electromechanical device may be fitted to any circuit as a SOLE means of protection against fault currents".

Rant mode to "OFF"
Phil

awemawson · « **Reply #305 on:** May 27, 2020, 04:33:16 PM »

It's a Wylex, as is the sub-board I'm fitting, so a reputable make.

But amusingly, when you fit an RCD as opposed to just an isolator in the Wylex NH series 3 phase boxes, you have to buy a little 'kit' with extra links and DIN rail to mount it. Included is a clear plastic cover for these links with a label pre-attached saying something like 'disconnect supply before removing' BUT THEY STICK THE LABEL ON UPSIDE DOWN

I've fitted several of these boards with the kits - the screws holding the insulation clear cover are asymmetrical so it can only go one way, but the first time I found it, it had me puzzled for quite a time trying to fit it. Now I just peel the label and stick it back the right way up

Sea.dog · « **Reply #306 on:** May 27, 2020, 05:08:01 PM »

Quote from: hermetic on May 27, 2020, 06:26:05 AM

Sorry seadog, all I heard was the whooshing noise as that went straight over my head, although I do have to wear one of my (daughters old tights) hairnets when I use Chromapol....there have been messy disasters!
Phil

http://dir.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/detail/tradeName.html?id=22073

Rather than https://www.cromarbuildingproducts.com/products/cromapol/

awemawson · « **Reply #307 on:** May 28, 2020, 05:12:36 AM »

Firstly this morning I replaced the risers of the flow and return pipes that got kinked yesterday, and removed the faulty RCD for when the replacement arrives.

On the bench, pressing the RCD 'Test' button introduced no leakage current - it's supposed to put a resistor from the lives to neutral to introduce and imbalance and trip. To prove my theory I did the same test with (admittedly a single phase) spare RCD and could measure the resistance when the button was pressed. OK it's definitely faulty !

Then I drew up panels to mount the flow and return water pipe terminations on the verticals that I've welded to the building structure and cut them on the CNC plasma table and trial assembled the plumbing that turns them through 180 degrees and gives a barb fitting for more flexible hose leading to the chiller itself. The hex nipple in between the two elbows doesn't give enough separation, but the running nipples that I have on order haven't yet arrived.

. . . now off to paint the panels !

awemawson · « **Reply #308 on:** May 28, 2020, 07:52:43 AM »

OK panels painted, now twiddling thumbs waiting for deliveries !

. . . and while typing, the coupler for the chiller pump feed pipe, and the full length 1" BSP socket to fix the bore hole pump have been delivered

So I set about cutting the leaking Grundfos feed pipe and solvent welding an extension on to allow me to install the universal coupling - but the solvent weld will have to dry first.

hermetic · « **Reply #309 on:** May 28, 2020, 04:54:26 PM »

Quote from: Sea.dog on May 27, 2020, 05:08:01 PM

Quote from: hermetic on May 27, 2020, 06:26:05 AM
Sorry seadog, all I heard was the whooshing noise as that went straight over my head, although I do have to wear one of my (daughters old tights) hairnets when I use Chromapol....there have been messy disasters!
Phil

http://dir.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/detail/tradeName.html?id=22073

Rather than https://www.cromarbuildingproducts.com/products/cromapol/

Now I understand!! LOL, the new girl at the hairdressers could get the push if she mistook one for the other!!

Sea.dog · « **Reply #310 on:** May 28, 2020, 05:56:34 PM »

Definitely, Phil. It'd make a right mess of your dreads

awemawson · « **Reply #311 on:** May 29, 2020, 08:02:19 AM »

Last night I wired up a 'mini-ring main' to give me some local power sockets, and this morning fitted the 'universal coupler' to the Grundfos feed pump, hopefully eliminating that tiny drip.

I also re-worked the bore hole pump output fitting that had developed a tiny weep - I love rigid plastic threads - NOT!

Having tested that the chiller pump pipework was now sound I fixed the temperature sensors to the appropriate pipes, using thermal compound and Ty-Wraps. Sensor leads not long enough for nicely run cables so a bit of a spiders web.

Having now labelled the temperature display I think that this new chiller is now finished - hopefully !

mattinker · « **Reply #312 on:** May 29, 2020, 08:28:22 AM »

Great! So now you can chill out! Looking good!

awemawson · « **Reply #313 on:** May 29, 2020, 01:06:32 PM »

Very good Matthew

So the longer running nipple was delivered at lunch time so I was able to dry assemble the components of the bore hole flow and return panel, offer them up to the verticals that I welded on the other day, and drill and tap the mounting holes.

As I was at it I also mounted the panel for the 16 amp three phase socket at a high level to be away from any water leaks, although the 3 phase sockets still haven't been delivered.

Once I was sure that everything was suitably accessible for tightening up, I pulled it all apart and re-assembled it with Loctite pipe sealant on all except the plastic MDPE connectors where I used thick 'gas rated' PTFE tape.

A bit of careful measurement re pipe lengths, a couple of snips, and the deed was done - panel now fixed awaiting wetting up.

I've done a bit of a re-think where the burn out kiln will be placed - needed to decide as another 16 amp 3 phase socket needed - it's now spun round 90 degrees and crossed the door way !

While all this was happening, the loctite on the bore hole pump was hopefully curing but hadn't had the full time intended, but as a certain person wanted to water her poly tunnel I took the risk and turned things back on - phew no leaks (yet!)

awemawson · « **Reply #314 on:** May 30, 2020, 05:19:53 AM »

Having set over night the Loctite pipe seal on the water panel 'should' now be Ok so I connected the borehole pump output initially via the existing temporary stop cock 'just in case' and did a leak test - all seems good. So pipe cut to length and connected directly and again tested - all good so far.

And the really good news is that the troublesome joint on the pump controller output that I re-sealed yesterday has so far NOT leaked despite the Loctite 542 being prematurely stressed

. . .so the flow and return for the new chiller are up and running in the foundry, just awaiting the 16 amp three phase sockets and the flexible umbilical water pipes (water panel to machine)

russ57 · « **Reply #315 on:** May 30, 2020, 06:27:21 AM »

You'll be melting by mid summer...

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

hermetic · « **Reply #316 on:** May 30, 2020, 08:59:44 AM »

Quote from: Sea.dog on May 28, 2020, 05:56:34 PM

Definitely, Phil. It'd make a right mess of your dreads

It DID!!

hermetic · « **Reply #317 on:** May 30, 2020, 09:06:07 AM »

Andrew, re the kiln position, could you put one bay of shelving where the kiln is and move the kiln to where the shelving was?
Phil.

awemawson · « **Reply #318 on:** May 30, 2020, 09:51:22 AM »

Phil, a very constructive comment and you are correct that there would be a far better place for the kiln (nearer the distribution box, and backing onto a steel fire door rather than timber cladding. But unfortunately, being 40 inches deep (shelves are 15 inches deep) it completely blocks access to the back door.

Where it is, is rather 'out on a limb'. That whole side of the foundry is a pain as there is a huge sliding fire door floor to roof taking up most of the length of the wall and precluding mounting sockets etc.

Putting the shelves where the kiln is and shunting the foundry bench nearer the rear wall and putting the kiln next to it is a possibility but still has the problem of no where for it's socket and it sticking out a long way

When I built the kitchen in my first house (back in 1973!!!) I made a model out of (now banned) polystyrene ceiling tiles - perhaps I should find some ceiling tiles

hermetic · « **Reply #319 on:** May 30, 2020, 09:59:35 AM »

Ah I see, Buggr!
Phil

awemawson · « **Reply #320 on:** May 30, 2020, 10:35:22 AM »

Phil, let it not be said that you are without influence - you've got me shifting the furniture AGAIN

By spinning the Kiln 90 degrees it only protrudes 32 inches when on the end of the second foundry bench and you can still just get at the rear door. The socket problem is overcomable, as although it backs (sides actually!) onto the sliding door, there is an RSJ above that I should be able to fix a socket to. Trailing cables aren't possible as it's between two doorways)

I'll sleep on it, but probably this is a better layout so thank you for prompting me to get the pallet truck out yet again

awemawson · « **Reply #321 on:** May 31, 2020, 12:37:13 PM »

Time to think about making a door for the 'pump house'. Needs to be something a bit more durable than B&Q pine but I'm clean out of recycled oak or any other hardwoods. No, hang on, there's an old ledged and braced plank door in the stable keeping the rain off the straw pile that we replaced when we did a refurbish on the house some years ago - will it dismantle and provide stock ?

(Picture of it in situ before we virtually demolished the house in 2012 !)

Turns out that it was entirely screwed together making dismantling relatively easy - planks are about eight inches wide but have 1/2" grooves with inserted tongues to hold them together so you lose an inch.

Bottom edge of the door was rather water damaged from neglect but it has provided enough stock to make the new and much smaller door. I also found some chunky window sill material of odd tropical hardwood that was probably removed at the same time from which I milled a pair of 3" x 2" door jambs.

I milled the planks down to five inches so five planks for an approximately 25 inch wide door. I should have passed them through the planer thicknesser at this stage, but it didn't occur to me until I'd cut them to approximate lengths. Never mind - two passes to remove the varnish and glue. Pity it doesn't remove the screw holes as well!

So far I've got the timber and the idea but not yet fixed them together as other things crop up to distract me.

I'm thinking not to hinge this door but to make it a removable panel - possibly retained by rare earth magnets but not decided yet.

awemawson · « **Reply #322 on:** June 01, 2020, 06:57:16 AM »

This morning I cut the pump house door jambs and temporarily mounted them to allow me to measure the door's final size. They will come off for varnishing in due course.

Now having the door final size I trimmed the planks to give me about 1/4" to plane to final size, glued and mounted them up in a pair of sash cramps and fitted the ledges to hold them flat.

I'll give the glue over night to set before any more work on them.

Meanwhile the 16 amp 3 phase sockets have arrived so I suppose that that's work for this afternoon sorted !

awemawson · « **Reply #323 on:** June 01, 2020, 12:41:35 PM »

I decided to give the door jambs a coat of varnish so that it can dry over night and be re-fitted in the morning. I was just starting when a desperate neighbour arrived needing his 'digging spoons' welded as one spade had completely broken off.

This delayed starting the wiring but I did get the 16 amp 3 phase socket for the water chiller fixed, wired in and tested - one more to do for the kiln.

awemawson · « **Reply #324 on:** June 02, 2020, 10:24:08 AM »

Today's job : Mount the 16 amp 3 phase socket for the burn out kiln. To mount it on the RSJ above called for a back plate and angle, with holes drilled up into the RSJ to bolt it to.

Simple drawing in Autocad incorporating the 5 degree slope of the RSJ to keep the socket level. However when I imported it into Sheetcam I found that I had no tools defined

Yesterday, fed up with Microsoft falsely accusing me of running a hooky operating system, I had changed over to a standby PC that I had previously loaded with all the legacy software that I need to run as 32 bit Win 7 but had obviously forgotten to bring Sheetcam's tool set over. This system I had managed to turn off automatic Windows updates BEFORE Microsoft 'upgraded' to their spoiler version that is determined to stop you using Windows 7. (I have to).

I eventually resorted to bringing up the old system and exporting the tool file but a pain - thanks Microsoft

So at last I managed to plasma cut the backing plate, cut and drill a suitable bit of 50 mm heavy angle iron, clean them up and spray them. This time I remembered to spray the manhole cover lifting keys that I made - they will be living in the 'pump house' so I wanted to at least make a token gesture to keeping them free of rust! I've intended to spray them for weeks and each time the gun has been full I've forgotten. Holes drilled and a pair of 4" No 12 screws put in the back wall to keep them safe

While I was doing this Clive (our 1/2 a day a week gardener) made a splendid job of back filling the shallow trench and seeding the nice tilth that he produced. The pipes were separated, fine earth put between them and about 2" over, followed by continuous roofing tiles to guard against spades and forks, topped with a yellow 'cables below' hazard tape, and earth to surface level.

By this time my paint had dried enough for the backing plate, angle and socket to be mounted - but this time I pre-wired the socket as the last one was a neck cricking nightmare! SWA cable clipped to the RSJ and run to the sub-main distribution box, wired in and tested - All OK and the kiln got a brief warming for the first time in months

News:

Author Topic: Resurrection of a CFEI 100 KVA Induction Furnace (Read 224507 times)