Resurrection of a CFEI 100 KVA Induction Furnace

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vtsteam:
Water, never where you want it when you want it, and always where you don't.

"It's darn slippery stuff, I tell you," he said, staring out the window at his now emptied 3000 gallon cistern, surrounded by a world of mud, more rain due in the afternoon, with a wood splitter and 3 more cords of wood to split in the middle of it.

awemawson:
OK I've determined that water is getting in in three places :bugeye:

A/ Under and round the roller shutter:

The old bottom seal was replaced yesterday but the seal to shutter joint leaked. Last night I pryed back the outer upper lip, put roof seal gunge under
it, re-seated the seal then put more gunge in the angle where they join, and am pretty sure that is now water tight.

The threshold 'kerb' that it comes down onto is uneven leaving a 1/2" gap in places - I'd intended to chop it out (it's soft sand and cement with added
PVA) and re-instate it in sharp sand and cement but I've changed my mind - I'll still hack it out, but I've ordered a commercial moulded rubber
threshold that incorporates a step as a dam and is bonded down with Everbuild Stixall that by all accounts seems amazing stuff and even can be
installed under water (It may have to!)

B/ Where the foundry corrugated sheet roof meets the bargeboard above the roller shutter.

We tried sealing this junction with 'eaves closer' foam inserts and roofing gunge - it improved things but wasn't a full cure. It is this junction that I tried
(and failed!) to improve today. The re-inforcing mesh arrived so I was up on the roof while the weather was good trying to install it. Sadly the mesh
hasn't got the 'give' to sink into the corrugations and still remain on the bargeboard - it just spans across. I had to pull off what I had done for a re-
think. It did however successfully let me seal two gaping bargeboard joints.

C/ This is what I think of as the 'original leak' as it was the first that I was aware of.

Water is running down the outermost corrugation of the main workshop roof and straight into the foundry. Theoretically water should never enter this
corrugation as it is covered by the upper face of the bargeboard, and the sheet to bargeboard has already been taped and sealed as has the moulded
ridge capping. This corrugation emerges into the foundry due to the history of the three buildings being built sequentially and the roof being (lets be
polite!) imperfectly designed. I think that this leak is going to prove the hardest to cure.

modeng200023:
Well Andrew, there is one thing that comes out of your roof capers.
You are getting plenty of exercise :clap:

John

awemawson:
Yes John, but not the sort that I like . . . roofs are NOT my natural element . . oh and by the way that Cromapol is amazingly slippery if you accidentally put a hand or foot on it . . AMHIK . . :bugeye:

I think the way forward with that particular joint with the corrugations is a squirt of expanding foam into each 'rabbit hole' and when set trim it off vertically and paint a thick layer of Cromapol over the foam.

. . . but I'm open to suggestions . . .

vtsteam:
The roofing should lap over the barge board, and there should be an overhang past the barge board. That's the basic problem. Right now It forms wells which are actually the lowest points on your roof. The lowest point should have been the drip edge.

Water will sit in those wells, and no matter how you plug the roof/board juncture with goo and foam, that will eventually crack under exposure and freezing and thawing of those wells, and wick water in.

Around here in Vermont any damp juncture that has spray foam inside is sooner or later discovered by ants, who think it's an ideal nesting medium and excavate tunnels in it. It's similar to decaying wood which is easier to carve and more insulative than new wood. This is the downfall of some modern foam panel house construction methods here as well. Any sealing imperfections are eventually discovered by ants. In fact many embody insect repellents for that reason.

I think the only good solution is to eliminate those wells and cover the barge board so there's a continuing slope past the wall to a drip edge. What comes to mind, other than re-roofing properly, is somehow continuing the roof line over the BBoard. I can't think of any ideal easy way to do that. A hesitant suggestion from me would be to try to fill in for a short distance up the roof with overlapping lengths of new corrugated roofing.

Unfortunately this properly should tuck underneath the old roofing, and then overlap the BBoard. I suppose you could try to lap it over both, but then you are presented with having to seal the edge where the old and new roofing lap. Still this is a much smaller thickness joint than those wells, and the reinforcing mesh and goo would likely have a better chance of surviving, than they would in the present location. The other advantage would be the possibility of extending the roofing past the BB for a proper overhang. The overhang might help with your threshold water splash ingress as well

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