Resurrection of a CFEI 100 KVA Induction Furnace

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awemawson:
Today's tasks - start putting it back together, and try and make a start on mounting the electrical isolator switch that prevents opening the enclosure door when 'on'.

Re-assembly was fairly straight forwards - I'd made it like Meccano with this in mind - not started on the plumbing yet.

Working out the correct location for the enclosure isolator and it's back panel DIN rail took far longer than it should but I think (hope) it's in the right place. Then I drew up an enclosure indicator panel in Autocad, cut a plastic template from it using the Laser Cutter, marked the door accordingly and cut bits out with the angle grinder.

The four temperature indicators and an LED 'Live' light will mount on a separate panel that will attach with spot welded studs.

Then it was time to paint the rear of the electrical enclosure, that got forgotten last time, and both sides of the enclosure door. I know that I've inverted the door slightly prematurely so the inside paint will be marked - ah well who can see - it's inside !

awemawson:
Time to make an Indicator Sub Panel for the front of the enclosure.

I CNC plasma cut a version of the previous drawing for the template in 2 mm Zintec steel but without the mounting holes. This panel will be fixed with studs welded with my stud welder on the back.

Having filed and fettled the panel I did a couple of test stud welds to check the settings then went ahead with the real thing. After a sand blast and coat of zinc rich paint it was cooked a bit with a heat gun, and a coat of satin black sprayed on just the front face. Another cooking with the heat gun and it was ready to populate.

Firstly checking which way up the four indicators go and marking their rears I pushed them in, retained by plastic grippy ears moulded into them. Add the power indicator and we are ready to fit it.

I put the enclosure door hinges back on, mounted the door, fitted its two locking catches, and also the mains power interlock mechanism, along with the enclosure internal rear panel onto which all the components mount. (This was needed to check alignment of the power interlock)

Then at last the indicator sub panel could go on. Nothing wired up yest - I still need to mount the 16 amp 3 phase input socket on the rear.

awemawson:
I thought that I might as well cut out the mounting plate for the 16 amp three phase mains input socket - when that's fitted I can wire and test as I go.

So just a 125 mm x 140 mm 6 mm plate with a few holes in it - usual thing - drawn in Autocad, cut by CNC plasma but it needs painting before fitting. Rather than rattle can black I decided to use the silver hammer finish paint as it is basically part of the frame. Not worth getting the spray gun out I thought, brush paint it. BAD MISTAKE :bang:

What a terrible finish brush painting hammer paint gives ! I had to wipe the entire sticky mess off with Xylene, and do what I should have done in the first place - get the spray gun out.

Came out OK in the end, and to be honest using the small touch up spray gun doesn't involve too much in clear up afterwards - remember next time :med:

hermetic:
There is a knack to brush painting hammer finish! I don't know if it applies to that particular paint, which we discussed some time ago, and I bought 5ltrs of, because I haven't used it yet, but I find that the best you can do is experiment with different amounts of thinning, depending on how thick it is as delivered, and then put it on fairly heavy in a warm room, brush it out quickly in straignt lines, then leave it alone. The more you brush it, the worse it gets!
phil

awemawson:
The problem that I had was the the 'hammers' were coming out far too large.

I think the best approach to brush painting this stuff is not to :clap:

Spray for me from now on.

,
. . . I got that socket mounted :thumbup:

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