Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Sliding Mitre Saw Table Insert & 3d Printing Problems.
ddmckee54:
Phil:
Here's a couple of more things to think about:
I don't remember where I read it, but one of the recommendations that I found for the first layer thickness was to set that layer at 50%-75% of your nozzle diameter. I print with a 0.4mm nozzle so I always set my first layer between 0.23mm to 0.3mm.
Be sure you periodically level your print bed and set your home position height of the print head. I used to do this every time I started the printer from cold, but I'm confident enough in it now to only do this when I service the print head or when the first layer starts looking funky.
It's just a personal preference, but I always set the slicing software up to print the interior perimeter wall first when printing the perimeter. The way I look at it, that way the interior wall should always be printing on a solid surface. Even if you're printing an overhang on an interior corner, the exterior perimeter at least has a chance of bonding to the perimeter beside it. If you print the exterior perimeter first, then it's hanging out there all by itself. Maybe your printer will do it, but mine absolutely refuses to properly print a curve on free air.
Again, it's a personal preference, but I always print the exterior perimeter at about 60%-80% of the normal print speed. I might just be imagining it, but I think I get a better surface quality when I do that.
On the first layer I try to set the extrusion multiplier to between 105%-110%. I try to completely fill the first layer so that the nozzle is planning the surface flat. I try not to extrude so much that the nozzle leaves ridges though. I don't know if it's a fact or not, but I think that the ridges would just cause adhesion problems with the next layer.
There's a lot to learn at first, but just keep printing parts and doing what you're doing - trying to make the next part better.
Out of idle curiosity, how long did it take you to print the miter saw parts at 100% infill?
Don
philf:
Thanks Don & Joules,
There's obviously an awful lot more to 3d printing than taking the printer out of the box and using it.
I'll do some more experimentation when I next need to print something.
Cheers
Phil
philf:
--- Quote from: ddmckee54 on February 11, 2020, 03:59:37 PM ---
Out of idle curiosity, how long did it take you to print the miter saw parts at 100% infill?
--- End quote ---
Don,
I wanted 100% infill because, looking at the broken part, you could see where the blade had taken some lumps out of the insert - with a non-solid infill this would have broken into the core and weakened the whole part.
I didn't time how long it took to print but Cura tells me that the end pieces were 2h 40m each & the centre sections 2h 34m (for the 2). A total of 8 hours!
The joy of the printer is that you can set it off and come back in a few hours to see the job done.
Phil.
awemawson:
--- Quote from: philf on February 12, 2020, 05:23:55 AM ---
--- End quote ---
The joy of the printer is that you can set it off and come back in a few hours to see the job done.
Phil.
[/quote]
Or if you are unlucky you come back to a tangle of extruded media EVERYWHERE :bugeye:
Though in fairness this has only happened once to me.
philf:
Andrew,
Fortunately, I've not had a total failure yet!
I don't think I've mentioned my printer is a Balco from Aldi.
Phil.
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