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Ender 3 - General discussion

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AdeV:
I've found Cura putting odd scaffolding in sometimes; usually one can fix that by tweaking the overhang angle setting. Then again, there's about 5000 settings in Cura that I haven't even looked at, beyond spotting that they're there!

I did try Slic3r, but I'm currently preferring the GUI on Cura, even if it's a bit more simplistic (or, perhaps, because it's a bit more simplistic).

So far, touch wood, no weird slicing errors. Main problem I've had is bed adhesion, and so far the glue stick approach has completely fixed that. I mainly print PLA, and have done a couple of PETG prints. Not tried ABS or any of those squishy plastics yet.

Will_D:
More lessons leatned and to be!!

Was having trouble with initial start up. Set the bed to 70 and the nozzle to 210. Waited for bed to come up (nozzle gets there very quickly) then find it will not extrude. Display shows Set and actual to be bang on 210. Wait a bit longer, no extrusion.

So decide to strip down the hot end following this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BniN-EdTNww&t=1298s

Found a major mistake: when changing a nozzle I had not adjusted the bowden tube to but-up against the nozzle so that the heat break tube got a plug of pla in it. Followed the guide and took it apart a cleaned out the heat break tube. Also removed the 2 long bolts that are not needed.

Lesson learned: always adjust the bowden tube when changing nozzles.

Can any one else point a i/r thermometer at their nozzles (which should be say 210) as mine says its about 80C. And yes I know about emissivity error when using i/r on shinny things

One final question:
Why is it considered a major upgrade to fit a "Swiss all metal hot end" for 70£ or so when the one supplied is all metal (ok aluminium as against titanium)

Answers on the back of a twenty pound note please!!

Cheers

Will

PekkaNF:
Wonder if aftermarket hot end has better thermal insulation between hot and cold sections?

I printted some bed leveling wheels and put there nylock nuts as sggested several places. It does not work. The screw braks free from the bed.

philf:

--- Quote from: PekkaNF on January 26, 2020, 02:05:53 PM ---I printted some bed leveling wheels and put there nylock nuts as sggested several places. It does not work. The screw braks free from the bed.

--- End quote ---

Pekka,

What do you mean when you say that screw breaks free from the bed?

This modification made a huge difference to my printer.

Phil.

PekkaNF:
I turns free withe the nut. To amke anything usefull, I need to imobilize the screw with a needle nose pliers and then I turn the adjustment wheel (and nylock), not that practical.

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