The Shop > CNC
First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
PekkaNF:
I tried two different bed temperatures and even douced the bed in the end with cold water.
I use the standard rough magnetic surface from Ender 3 PRO.
New try Today with flexible material Ninjatek Cheetah TPU 95A. Standard settings, but bed 40C and extruder 228C. 40% infill produced too hard buttons, checked Clough42 videos and dialed accordingdgly down to 20%, which looks pretty funky inside (could be mistaken with stringing).
Will_D:
So after a slight delay with North Pole freight deliverys my Ender-3 arrived.
Very impressed with overall construction.
First rule is to watch a good build video as it explains how to check all the mechanical variables that need tweeking.
Took best part of the day to get it built. Then half a day to get the bed level!
Bed leveling test prints eventually came out spot on.
Now most people complain about poor adhesion to the hot bed, exact opposite for me. Finding it hard to remove these thin test prints.
Its the black textured removable bed not glass
Bed too hot, too cold or what. Should bed be back at room temperature?
Pete.:
I found that using a small engineer's square made it easy to build it square. Even though it does fit up nicely and becomes very rigid once bolted together the square shows that it's possible to get the pylons skewed.
Did you have to adjust the z-axis mount? Seems to be a common issue. I drilled mine out a bit and shimmed it too, also had to make sure I didn't tighten the travel nut up solid.
PekkaNF:
My (limited) experience on Ender 3 Pro magnetic peel surface is that it works really well on PLA and under 70C bed temperature when leveled well. Looks like thinnest copy paper thickness (0,12 mm) between nozzle and bed is too little, bit more and no problem with addhesion or braking free. I have used around 60C bed temperature for PLA, but it might depend on filamet you use.
PETG gets stuck and very hard to remove, I spoiled my original magnetic peel surface, while I tried to remove all PETG with spatula. It might have been also too high bed temperature. I haven't found on manual any guideline for maximum bed temperature, but I have found some anecdotal information that over 70C is not recommended.
I ordered new magnetic surface and a surface that is suposed to take better heating and beating. I haven't got them, but I'll get back when I have some experience.
Pekka
ddmckee54:
Pekka, we may have read the same anecdotal information, I've read that some of the more exotic magnetic materials will permanently lose their magnetism between 80°-100°C.
I've got a Prusea I3 clone and a rebranded Wanhao D6, and I mainly print PLA. I ALWAYS used blue painters on the I3 and had no problems with the part no sticking to the tape. When I got the D6 clone about 18 months ago, I naturally used blue painters tape on it too.
On both printers, with larger parts I would have trouble with the corners of the part pulling up off the bed. The part wasn't pulling off the tape, but the part WAS pulling the tape off the bed. Eventually I determined that the D6 clone came with a print bed that I could print directly onto. I normally print PLA, and it would not stick to the print bed. I got an Elmer's glue stick, and we were off to the races. The only glue stick I could find was the purple Elmer's kid safe version. Since I started using the glue stick the only times I've had trouble with bed adhesion on the D6 print bed are when I didn't refresh the glue often enough, or I tried printing on an area of the bed where I hadn't applied the glue. I'm seriously considering getting a replacement D6 print surface for the I3's print bed, it's less than $20 and they're the same size.
I use the sharpened metal putty knife that came with the D6 clone to remove the parts. One thing that I've found about removing the part - as the heated bed cools it will be easier to remove the part.
Don
Don
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