Author Topic: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro  (Read 14531 times)

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #50 on: December 22, 2019, 10:48:32 AM »
Good info. Just got Ender 3 pro and it is printting the first print. Instruvctionst that came with it were not complete, but I got there.

I need to find test print to check table level and height....I think I have seen some examples.

Looks like first thing it needs is a filament guide to rout the filament off the Z-axis screw.

Now the slicer? I came with it's own. Have to search a little of it.


Offline Pete.

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #51 on: December 22, 2019, 12:05:28 PM »
Mine gets close like that too it doesn't cause any bother.

What I have found is that stuff that prints beautifully in white comes out a mess in black with the exact same settings. Same make filament just different colour.

Offline WeldingRod

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #52 on: December 22, 2019, 02:52:23 PM »
Yeah, that's why 95% of my stuff is blue..
  Plus, that's the Redacted company color ;-)

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Offline AdeV

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #53 on: December 23, 2019, 01:51:26 AM »
What I have found is that stuff that prints beautifully in white comes out a mess in black with the exact same settings. Same make filament just different colour.

Snap. I've taken to writing the bed & extrusion temps that work well on each reel of filament...

I've also taken to using glue stick on every print, I'm really having trouble with bed adhesion otherwise.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #54 on: December 23, 2019, 08:45:53 AM »
Snap. I've taken to writing the bed & extrusion temps that work well on each reel of filament...

I've also taken to using glue stick on every print, I'm really having trouble with bed adhesion otherwise.

Do you have the glass bed?
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Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #55 on: December 23, 2019, 10:33:59 AM »
Got Creality slicer workking....it looks like it is based on cura. Downloaded bed level test and scaled it down to more close to bed size in the slicer. First try showed that the bbed was not leveled. Second print came out ok, on bed level but still had some issues. I think I am downloading cura and try that.

Bed is now leveled, but X/Y size is off. 100 mm according to slicer and 110 mm according to mr. Mitutoyo

Pekka

Offline AdeV

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #56 on: December 23, 2019, 12:11:59 PM »
Snap. I've taken to writing the bed & extrusion temps that work well on each reel of filament...

I've also taken to using glue stick on every print, I'm really having trouble with bed adhesion otherwise.

Do you have the glass bed?

Yep - I find the glass bed is worse for adhesion than the standard bed.... and that's even after I've given it a good washing down, first with alcohol, then with hot soapy water, then with plain water... It will grab PLA, most of the time, PETG was a disaster. Using the gluestick however, and everything stays thoroughly welded down... to the point sometimes of being difficult to remove!
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #57 on: December 23, 2019, 06:05:04 PM »
Glue stick with glass? Have been tempted to try it....
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Offline AdeV

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #58 on: December 24, 2019, 06:41:16 PM »
Glue stick with glass? Have been tempted to try it....

It works brilliantly - just make sure you cover the bits you're going to print on!  I can usually get away without it with PLA, but it was essential (even with a raft) when I tried PETG.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #59 on: December 25, 2019, 05:30:08 PM »
I was checking PETG extruder and bed temperature...

Bed temperature is no problem, but does it stick too hard on the bed? Tried to get some tips, but mostly got harspray or blue masking tape on glas plate ....but Ender 3 has this magnetic mystery plate that works for PLA, but PETG sticks everything like there is no tomorow - I have heard.

Looks like hot end max temperature of the stock Ender 3 Pro printer is bit marginal for PETG. But what is needed?

How much of of the good stuf is too much?
https://hackaday.com/2018/03/18/3d-printer-halts-and-catches-fire-analysis-finds-a-surprising-culprit/

Offline Pete49

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #60 on: December 30, 2019, 02:50:24 AM »
I use el cheapo womens hair spray on my glass beds both the abs printer and the pla one with excellent results. Iput 5 to 7 layers on and its good for several prints before topping off with 1 :mmr: coat now and again.
Pete
oops..........oh no.........blast now I need to redo it

Offline Joules

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #61 on: December 30, 2019, 08:58:43 AM »
I don't think I would get away referring to the wife like that Pete.

3M Blue painters tape, a wipe over with isopropanol and most plastics stick to it.  The advantage is the tape can be sacrificial, if you print PETG on glass the bond is so strong it will pull chunks of glass off the plate.  Water soak, and the blue tape comes away in worse case.
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Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #62 on: December 30, 2019, 10:34:55 AM »
I can confirm that PETG sticks like there is no tomorow. It is also whole lot fussy on every known print setting - compared to PLA.

One PCB holder took three tries, Even first one was usable and stringing was easily cut out - but it was not pretty when printed.


Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #63 on: December 30, 2019, 11:31:59 AM »
Pekka

That was printed with an Ender 3?

Eric
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Offline Pete.

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #64 on: December 30, 2019, 06:41:07 PM »
I printed these today. A few years ago we bought a metal shed to keep garden stuff in. The doors hung on plastic sliders which weren't very strong and used to bind when sliding. Eventually they broke up and the remnants are so brittle you can crumble them with your hands.

So these are the replacements, I made them longer so they are less likely to cock and bind. Only 3 shown here because I printed the first to make sure it fits.


Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #65 on: December 30, 2019, 07:40:10 PM »
Pekka

That was printed with an Ender 3?

Eric

Yes. Ender 3 Pro with new Cura and PETG.

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #66 on: December 31, 2019, 01:39:51 AM »
Annother part: Control panel lid for ELS. This was weird experience: First two tries did not stick. Usually everything sticks to ths surface, but last few times PETG stuck really hard to it and I had hard ime removing the remainers, I tried to take them carefully with spatula, but I can feel that I have scraped the surface pretty smooth. I washed the surface with soapy watter and then wiped with isopropyl alcohol, and adjusted the bed level once more.

Then without any clear reason, the third try was a charm. Although I can see some inperfections, most notably some marks from previous prints.

Actual print time of this one was 3 hours, 20 minutes, pretty close to estimate.

Pekka
« Last Edit: December 31, 2019, 07:42:35 AM by PekkaNF »

Offline Pete.

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #67 on: December 31, 2019, 04:39:48 AM »
That has printed very nicely.

Offline AdeV

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #68 on: December 31, 2019, 01:39:29 PM »
I can confirm that PETG sticks like there is no tomorow.

My experience was the exact opposite - no grip at all on the glass bed, even with a raft.

Just out of curiosity, what are your bed & extruder temps for PETG, and what bed did you use - the glass one, or the regular "rough" one?
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline tom osselton

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #69 on: December 31, 2019, 03:40:42 PM »
Curiosity here could you raise the temperature of the bed to help the petg release?

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #70 on: December 31, 2019, 05:01:48 PM »
I tried two different bed temperatures and even douced the bed in the end with cold water.

I use the standard rough magnetic surface from Ender 3 PRO.

New try Today with flexible material Ninjatek Cheetah TPU 95A. Standard settings, but bed 40C and extruder 228C. 40% infill produced too hard buttons, checked Clough42 videos and dialed accordingdgly down to 20%, which looks pretty funky inside (could be mistaken with stringing).

« Last Edit: December 31, 2019, 06:07:40 PM by PekkaNF »

Offline Will_D

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #71 on: January 02, 2020, 09:04:12 AM »
So after a slight delay with North Pole freight deliverys my Ender-3 arrived.

Very impressed with overall construction.

First rule is to watch a good build video as it explains how to check all the mechanical variables that need tweeking.



Took best part of the day to get it built. Then half a day to get the bed level!



Bed leveling test prints eventually came out spot on.

Now most people complain about poor adhesion to the hot bed, exact opposite for me. Finding it hard to remove these thin test prints.
Its the black textured removable bed not glass

Bed too hot, too cold or what. Should bed be back at room temperature?
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Offline Pete.

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #72 on: January 02, 2020, 09:49:41 AM »
I found that using a small engineer's square made it easy to build it square. Even though it does fit up nicely and becomes very rigid once bolted together the square shows that it's possible to get the pylons skewed.

Did you have to adjust the z-axis mount? Seems to be a common issue. I drilled mine out a bit and shimmed it too, also had to make sure I didn't tighten the travel nut up solid.

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #73 on: January 02, 2020, 01:47:13 PM »
My (limited) experience on Ender 3 Pro magnetic peel surface is that it works really well on PLA and under 70C bed temperature when leveled well. Looks like thinnest copy paper thickness (0,12 mm) between nozzle and bed is too little, bit more and no problem with addhesion or braking free. I have used around 60C bed temperature for PLA, but it might depend on filamet you use.

PETG gets stuck and very hard to remove, I spoiled my original magnetic peel surface, while I tried to remove all PETG with spatula. It might have been also too high bed temperature. I haven't found on manual any guideline for maximum bed temperature, but I have found some anecdotal information that over 70C is not recommended.

I ordered new magnetic surface and a surface that is suposed to take better heating and beating. I haven't got them, but I'll get back when I have some experience.

Pekka

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
« Reply #74 on: January 03, 2020, 12:40:28 PM »
Pekka, we may have read the same anecdotal information, I've read that some of the more exotic magnetic materials will permanently lose their magnetism between 80°-100°C.

I've got a Prusea I3 clone and a rebranded Wanhao D6, and I mainly print PLA.  I ALWAYS used blue painters on the I3 and had no problems with the part no sticking to the tape.  When I got the D6 clone about 18 months ago, I naturally used blue painters tape on it too. 

On both printers, with larger parts I would have trouble with the corners of the part pulling up off the bed.  The part wasn't pulling off the tape, but the part WAS pulling the tape off the bed.  Eventually I determined that the D6 clone came with a print bed that I could print directly onto.  I normally print PLA, and it would not stick to the print bed.  I got an Elmer's glue stick, and we were off to the races.  The only glue stick I could find was the purple Elmer's kid safe version.  Since I started using the glue stick the only times I've had trouble with bed adhesion on the D6 print bed are when I didn't refresh the glue often enough, or I tried printing on an area of the bed where I hadn't applied the glue.  I'm seriously considering getting a replacement D6 print surface for the I3's print bed, it's less than $20 and they're the same size. 

I use the sharpened metal putty knife that came with the D6 clone to remove the parts.  One thing that I've found about removing the part - as the heated bed cools it will be easier to remove the part.

Don

Don
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