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My week this week, my workshop videos!

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hermetic:

--- Quote from: awemawson on July 03, 2021, 05:13:58 AM ---The true test is to find a 1/2" bolt on the machine. If it's 12 tpi it's Whitworth and if it's 13 then it's UNC

--- End quote ---
That is my mission for Tuesday Andrew, Monday I will be in York moving my eldest from the grossly overpriced Uni "halls" into an only mildly overpriced student residence off campus. She thought it was much cheaper untill I told her that you could rent a whole 2 bed house for the same price per week!
Phil

awemawson:
I bought my Fordson complete with obligatory deeply split tyres and was about to put my hand in my pocket for new ones. A farmer friend councilled against it saying if I'm not using it on the road the tyres will last for years in that state. He was right - I think I kept it about five years on the same split tyres.

 I did pick up a spare wheel / tyre when one flitted by and kept it in the farm yard in case I needed to get off the field if I had a flat - come to think of it it's still there as it will fit my Ford 4000 and 4600 as they are the same stud pattern.

hermetic:
Very interesting Andrew, I will remember that!!
Phil

hermetic:
 I get the water pump fitted to the Fordson, have one of my tidy ups, and then have a look at the topper and see what we will need to join the two together, I have the driveshaft, but quite a lot of the heavy metalwork on the topper is bent, and one of the flail cutters is stiff, so in we go! I need a new top link, and immediately immersing myself in the mysterious world of tractor subculture, I learn that I may need a cat 1 top link.......maybe, and also some bigger pins for the bottom link connections, and some bottom link arm balls, as mine are worn out (Fnar Fnar) I get the driveshaft sliding in and out (Fnar fnar  again) after a generous application of lube (what else?) but the safety cover for the driveshaft is missing, and as they are all plastic, and £70! I may have a look at making one. It has obviously been used without one, but it obviously needs one to keep it safe, I will see what I can come up with, we may have some plastic turning to do!
Phil, in the East Yorkshire rain forest, on a jungle taming course!

pycoed:
Phil,
You may well find that you can get a new PTO shaft complete with plastic guard for the same price as they want for just the guard! Try to get one with a button release rather than the collar type, unless you enjoy coronaries. BTW those plastic guards are a rel bloody nuisance, after a few years use the end cones are impossible to slide for access to grease nipples ( which doesn't trouble stock farmers, who don't understand the concept of greasing :D)  & it's a sore temptation to cut the *** off & bin it, however a few strategic holes can allow access to the requisite nipples (oohh err, Matron!).

You can get a toplink from Ebay or Malpas tractors - around £25-30 suitable for a topper. You can also get the Cat 1 (or Cat2 - best measure to check before ordering) pins quite cheaply from these sources - it's hardly worth making them for the price you can buy them. Get some lynch pins at the same time, about 1000 should last you the year...

The rear wheel frame needs to be firmly fixed to the back of the topper, yet be height adjustable, whereas the front A frame needs to be able to allow the whole topper to "hinge" upwards of necessary.

Think of going down a dip: when the tractor is going up the far side, the topper is still going down the entry side, so the topper has to be able to swivel about a horizontal axis to achieve this. The three point linkage toplink is intended to prevent this, so some degree of articulation is necessary to prevent something breaking. I suspect that is why the bar was bent: to allow it to bend further if required!

They usually have a sort of swinging yoke for the toplink to attach to allow this, but it seems to be missing on yours. So... don't bother with the bar arrangement, just run a length of chain or suitable strap from the top of the A frame just below the toplink pin to the rear of the topper. This will allow you to lift the topper with the three point, but allow the rear wheel to push the rear of the topper up as terrain dictates.

There is usually a shearbolt on the PTO to topper gearbox connection which breaks if (when!) you hit something the blades don't like. Sometimes they are fitted with an adjustable slipping clutch, but I think yours has a plain shaft as input to the topper gearbox. Best carry a few spare shearbolts until you get used to setting the height & reading the terrain too.

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