The Craftmans Shop > Radio Control Models
Bruder Manitou 2150 - RC conversion
ddmckee54:
Attached is the 3D PDF as it currently sits. If you can open it, you can manipulate the viewing angle. You can also turn bits and pieces of the PDF ON or OFF.
I haven't 3D modeled the entire Bruder model, just the parts that I've been working on. I don't model any parts until I need to, makes working with the 3D CAD a little faster.
So far what I've been working on amounts to designing the following modifications:
1) The upper and lower frame halves. Including determining what had to be amputated to fit the new axles, AND still be able to put the frames back together. I'm trying to keep as much of the internal structure of the Bruder model as possible. I don't want to compromise the strength of the model any more than I have to.
2) The front and rear axles. I replaced the existing axles because the Bruder "suspension" was nothing more than allowing all the spindles to float up and down about 5mm. My version has the rear axle fixed to the lower frame while the front axle can pivot about 5-10° up and down. I will still be a rough ride, but it should keep all 4 wheels planted on the ground - MOST of the time.
3) I replaced the steering, the original Bruder steering had WAY too much slop in it. It had to have slop in it due to their suspension. Now the model should go the direction I want it to go, not just sort of in that direction.
4) I designed the axles around the N20 gearmotor, and modified original Bruder wheels. This model will have 4WD from 4 wheel-motors, just like the real deal.
5) I found a home for an 8 channel RC receiver, that goes where the model's "engine" would be. I can run the model on 6 channels, but I designed the changes around an 8 channel receiver.
6) I've designed the servo controlled 5 position switch and its' mounting bracket. Although when I look at the PDF I see that I still need to find a permanent home for a pair of them. I believe that I had planned on putting them in the upper frame, in the open bays next to where the outriggers mount.
7) I've got the slewing system designed, that required modeling part of the turret. The slewing gearbox is the blue object sticking out the side of the model. The area that it protrudes through, and into, is actually the "fuel tank" on the model.
Still to go, but probably all based on N20 gearmotors:
Boom lift mechanism - an N20 gearmotor with probably a 5mm or 8mm 3D printer lead-screw.
Boom extension mechanism - ditto on the gearmotor/lead-screw.
Fork tilt mechanism - ditto on the gearmotor/lead-screw.
Winch mechanism - don't know, maybe start with one of the 3D printing pen worm drive gearboxes used for filament feed?
That's enough Yakking for now,
Don
Will_D:
Really looking forward to the video at the end of this. Amazing level of detail and info in all your posts.
Always wanted to make a large Groves-Cole mobile crane in Meccano. It was the biggest at the time 450T lift, and about 8 axles. Scale was based on the largest roller ring bearing you could builds out of (iirc) the 6" ring girders and blue circular plates.
That was built and I still have it some where and also a bag of suitable tires. That's as far as i got
ddmckee54:
No progress on the project in the last month. I've been buried with the demands of the day job, we're going to be tearing out 2 existing production lines and installing 2 new lines. The next couple of weeks don't look any better - actually worse. I try not to bring the work home with me, but for the last week I haven't had a choice. I already know what I'll be doing THIS weekend, and relaxing is not an option. Once we get the electricians and systems integrators cut loose on this project the hardest part for me is over, then all I've got to do is ride herd on them so THEY stick to the schedule.
I'll get back to this project when I'm not so completely fried from work that all I want to do is sit down and veg-out.
Don
ddmckee54:
OK, update time. For the first time in probably months I printed out a test part for the Manitou. I printed the right front fender when viewed from the front of the machine, and guess what? It took about 2 hours to print and it didn't fit! One of the locating tabs was off by about 1mm - maybe a little more.
Not only did the fender not fit, the bridging layer screwed up. For some reason the bridging filaments were parallel to the support filaments, so in between the supports they was able to twist in the breeze. Every couple of mm the air from the cooling fan would twist that layer and it would cool twisted up. It took about 3-4 layers of mostly crappy adhesion before the layers settled down and printed correctly. That part of the fender is only about 5-8 layers thick.
I also found out that I need to modify the openings for the headlights and turn signals. I might have been able to install the LED's in the current configuration, but it would have been a struggle. Since I copied the light buckets onto the rear fenders, they also need to be modified.
I think I found the parameter in the slicing software that allows me to rotate the angle of the supports. They were at 0°, I'm going to try rotating them 45°. Just one more detail to pay attention to when slicing a part. I'm going to make the changes to the part and print it out again tonight. I'll take a picture or two of the new and improved fender, and see if I can get any decent pictures of the funkiness caused by the bridging layer twisting in the wind.
Don
ddmckee54:
No pictures yet - I rotated the supports but it didn't help. When the printer got to the bridging layer, it did the same thing. My current theory is that this is due to the fact I have the slicing program configured to give me a layer of separation between the supports and the bridging layer. This makes it MUCH easier to remove the supports.
So.... About 9:30 last night I changed the vertical upper separation to 0 layers and was going to reprint the part. I knew it took a little over 2 hours to print the part so I planned on just starting the print then going to bed and letting the print finish.
I've said before that my printer is in my living room, but I haven't said that I use the sneaker-shuffle to transfer files from my work-horse PC to the printer. I don't want to tie-up/bog-down that PC by printing from the PC via USB, so I print from files on a micro SD card. Apparently I actually DO shuffle, because last night I noticed I was getting a shock after I walked across the room. I don't get a shock when wearing my work boots, just my moccasins. I try to touch a part of the grounded frame so that I don't ZAPP the electronics but Murphy reared his ugly head.
Apparently I forgot to ground myself on the frame, because when I went to plug in the SD card I felt a shock through the fingers holding the card. At the same time my screen on my printer went black. I said "Oh Fudge", or something like that, and cycled power to the printer hoping it was only a temporary thing and the screen would come back to life after a re-boot. Yeah... Not so much.
I tried the shut the power of for 15 seconds then turn it back on trick, I tried the shut the power of for 30 seconds then turn it back on trick - neither worked. By this time I had pretty much cycled completely through all the expletives that I've learned in the last 65+ years. So I went to bed thinking I'd try it again in the morning, and if that doesn't work then I'm going to need to order the proprietary control boards. When I powered up the printer this morning the screen obligingly came to life. I haven't tried printing yet so I'm still not sure if I actually dodged the bullet or not.
Yeah I know, I SHOULD be wearing a grounding strap. When I'm handling IC's or other static sensitive electronic parts I do, didn't think I needed one just to walk across the room. Tonight I think I'll try printing with my boots on instead of my moccasins - see if that helps.
Don
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