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awemawson:
Today's first job - make a battery tray: up until now the two large batteries have sat on the floor. The machine came with an angle iron stand for them, but I wanted to integrate them onto the machine itself.

I bent up some 2 mm Zintec sheet, and drilled a series of strategic holes. Three 'just in case' drain holes, and a series of through holes to fix it on the right hand 'floor bearer' RSJ. The batteries are very heavy and it cantilevers towards the engine off the 3" RSJ but seems pretty sturdy. Holes in the tray are sized to be an interference fit with the square 'under head' of coach bolts, with the holes in the RSJ being a clearance fit for these squares. So when finally assembled after painting, each coach bolt will get a thump with a hammer to set it in the sheet metal of the tray, then the nut below the RSJ tightened and the surplus length chopped off.

Then I made a start on the 'Heater Panel' - two heaters both powered from domestic mains - one in the oil / cooling system and one in the cabinet so a new panel was needed to make room for an extra switch and also 'tell tale' indicators to show at a distance that the heaters are on.

One more panel to go and then this lot can have a coat of paint all in one session.

While this was happening several deliveries arrived:

- a 'Special' eStop button with THREE normally closed contacts -(these are rare and I wanted to avoid having to use a relay)

- a box full of DIN terminals from RS Components

- two 10 metre lengths of 20 mm flexible conduit and one 25 mm length

So now I have the bits to start on the 'relay box' and the Deep Sea Controller panel, but we have an influx of grand children over the weekend so things might get a bit fraught :bugeye:

awemawson:
Had a slight change of plans this morning, and decided to incorporate the on / off switch for the battery charger / maintainer in the same panel that controls the two heaters. After all, all three devices derive their power from the external domestic supply, so it is logical. So a quick redraw and re-plasma-cut to make a new panel.

I also drew up and cut the control panel that will hold the Deep Sea Controller and the eStop switch.

All panels and the alternator mounting bracket got grit blasted and sprayed in silver hammer finish and are currently drying.

That I think is the last replacement panel made up so perhaps I can soon start wiring them up !

awemawson:
Not much done today due to family commitments, but I did manage to drain a fair bit of the coolant allowing me to unscrew the engine block heater and water temperature sender for identification and replacement.

I've temporarily put a 1" BSP plug in place of the heater to stop drips.

The sender : I don't know if it is an analog variable resistance, or a thermal switch, but it is 1/2" BSP and bears the following on the hex nut:

DCT
9-9
ZJ

The block heater is 1" BSP and protrudes 2 1/4" into the heat exchanger and bears this on the hex flats:

Bray JJ
ZA2
200/250V
250W
K8

Both are currently open circuit - if you have one in your back pocket please let me know :clap:

RussellT:
I can't help with the details. I remember being told that Smiths marked everything they ever made with a part number so I surmise it's not one of theirs. If it's a thermal switch then being open circuit doesn't mean it's dead. Did it connect to a temperature gauge?

Russell

awemawson:
Russell Temperature Sender:

it's cable disappeared into a maze of wiring within the original 'relay controller' There was minimal electronics to it but it's possible that it had an analog sender with something looking at it and detecting a particular level. It doesn't alter it's resistance when heated to charring temperature (of my bench) so I reckon it's dead !

I've just ordered an analogue sender (50K ohm at 21 degrees C) so eventually I'll probably build a little Schmidt trigger circuit to give a digital 'over temperature' input to the Deep Sea Controller.

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