Puma / Dorman 6LE / MacFarlane B46B / 110 kVA Generator Resurrection

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awemawson:

--- Quote from: John Rudd on October 09, 2019, 12:19:21 PM ---The meter panel looks familiar.... :lol:

Nice job.. :bow:

--- End quote ---

Yes it's lost the Elapsed Hours meter, and the switches are now separate for voltage and current whereas previously one (faulty!) switch did both.

Two more panels to make - one to mount the Deep Sea controller with an eStop button, and one to control the cabinet and water jacket heaters off domestic mains.

vintageandclassicrepairs:
Hi Andrew,
The new ammeter selector switch hopefully came with a proper wiring diagram?
The switch should keep the feed from the two CT's that are not feeding the meter shorted out
It was drilled into us as apprentices on the danger of open circuiting a current transformer !!
Where I worked there were identical looking selector switches and meters on many panels but usually reading kV and kA
From memory (rapidly failing :scratch:) the switch that operated the frequency meter is spring loaded to the off position as the meter is not meant to read continuously ??

John

awemawson:
John,

The ammeter switch wiring 'as given' is in the picture below.

I can understand why a vibrating reed frequency meter perhaps should only be used intermittantly, but I think that previously it was permanently connected :scratch:

John Rudd:
Ordinarily, ct's would have a burden resistor across the reading side to prevent dangerous voltages being developed across them....when not in circuit... :zap:

Cant really remember about the Hz meters,

awemawson:
John, no sign of 'burden resistors' in the original implementation :scratch:

As an order for some short M5 hex bolts had arrived it was time to re-assemble the engine instrument panel. When taken off I was amused to note that it was only retained in place by the copper oil feed pipe, the three anti-vibration mounts having completely collapsed !

New mounts were not quite the same as the originals so a bit of ingenuity with custom spacers and some bending were called for ! Still it all went back together OK and was re-fixed to the engine and the oil feed pipe re-connected.

Then I turned my attention to the box that houses the relays for the Fuel Solenoid and the Starter - I'm re-using the original relays as they are in good condition, but I had to pilfer a replacement base for one from the defunct relay based controller, as one was cracked.

Investigating the box brought me to what I assume to be a bi-metallic over temperature cut out that had been mounted in the box, I think it was in series with the power feed to both relays. Well it's open circuit, and on heating it, it fails to change state, so this may well be the reason that the generator failed to start for the previous owner last Christmas!

I then spent some time working out what large crimp lugs I will need to wire the starter, alternator, ammeter etc, and how the wiring conduits would run. The original conduit had been retained by 'P Clips' held with small self tapping screws driven into any near place, including the heads of bolts! I've decided to use 'Girder Clips' and fabricate some suitable tabs to go under bolt heads for them to clip to.

The box is a main junction for many things on the engine, and was originally all joined together with 'chocolate block' connectors. I'm not keen on them and have decided to use proper DIN rail terminals.

So several orders placed for bits and pieces !

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