The Craftmans Shop > New from Old
Puma / Dorman 6LE / MacFarlane B46B / 110 kVA Generator Resurrection
awemawson:
Thanks chaps :thumbup:
Today's objectives:
A/ Remove and identify battery charging alternator
B/ Strip out the old relay controller and it's wiring.
Now this charging alternator has a pressed plate on the rear secured by three slotted head screws, but in such a position that you can't easily get a screw driver at them due to the oil filter housing, and they were VERY tight. They'd been soaking in 'Plusgas' over night but even so I ended up having to use my impact driver - anyway eventually they unscrewed revealing a mess and a bodge. The main output 'faston' terminal has obviously grossly over heated and is corroded and slack, and one of the other terminals has been bodged with ty-wraps and what looks like a bolt :scratch:
Now previously I'd mentioned a mystery wire from a water temperature sensor that went into the alternator - no, the cable just passes through and behind the rear plate so at least that mystery is solved.
Try as I might I could not shift the through pivot mounting bolt, again it's not in the easiest of places but never the less it's 'spanner bending tight' and has been given another anointment of Plusgas.
It seems that the engine has 'pad mount' provision for an alternator, but has a bracket attached to the pad converting it to a more conventional 'J180' mounting but the spacing of the pivot 'ears' is rather short at about 75 mm. It may be that I end up removing the pad mount adaptor and alternator as one and attack it on the bench.
The external charging alternator controller is a CAV 440A so I suppose it is probable that the alternator itself is a CAV - if anyone recognises it please shout. I think I'd prefer to replace it with one with an integral regulator but if I can get it off I'll take it to my local 'auto electrician' who rebuilds starters and alternators and see what he has to say about it.
awemawson:
So on to today's 'objective B' - removal of the old relay controller and associated wiring.
This went rather better, and after all it was just aggressive pruning ! Many of the smaller nuts and bolts resisted unscrewing, but a cold chisel made short work of them. All the relays and wiring have been removed (So no going back now!) with the exception of wires entering the rear of the controller box who's conduit from the engine actually comes in behind the 'false panel' so cannot be got at. When I re-wire, the new conduit will emerge in a more user friendly place.
I was horrified to discover that the voltage monitoring connections are made directly to the heavy wires from the main alternator and didn't pass through ANY form of fusing or isolation to the front panel mounted monitoring meters and switches :bugeye: They will when re-wired - I have temporarily terminated them safely to save having to re-make those humongous crimped terminals that they are jockeyed onto.
So boats now burnt - it HAS to have a new controller, and I've not tested that the Deep Sea 3110 that I have works - fingers crossed !
hermetic:
LIKE!! The engine sounds sweet enough too! Always a relief when it's running and produce a steady 415V.
Phil
East Yorkshire.
awemawson:
I've decided to retain the upper indicator panel that caries a Volt Meter, a Frequency Indicator, a Current Meter, a Running Hours Clock, and the switching to switch the meters from phase to phase. Apart from the current meter this will duplicate things that the Deep Sea controller can display, but I want the current meter and it's easier to keep the lot !
The Right Hand 'mode' panel I will replace with one just containing the Deep Sea 3110 controller and an Emergency Stop button
The three phase supply to the meter panel I will route via a small 3 phase 30 mA RCD and 6 amp trip just to add a modicum of safety
awemawson:
So having taken the decision - better implement it !
Old panel removed leaving space for Deep Sea 3110 and eStop button
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