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modeng200023:
It is interesting that you are using inch measurements. I find that they are of a more useful size than centimetres. :clap:

awemawson:
I'm equally at home with either, but this enclosure was made to Imperial dimensions.

. . . it's horses for courses really - if I'm dividing something up into sections to (for instance) get equally spaced screws I'll measure it in both systems and use the one that works out most conveniently.

The box externally was made to be 36" so little point in using 914.4 mm !

hermetic:
I agree Andrew, I use whatever measurement system is convenient too, but I do find it annoying that most metric dimensioned equipment never seems to be in round figures, I suppose that went out of the window with standardisation, or am I just a grumpy old bugger?

Phil

PekkaNF:
fibonacci sequence
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibonacci_number
+
Standard material sizes
+
Stock sizes
+
Modular sizes (often derived from archaic systems, like in building tradition)
+
Old standards and new standards
=
Part of the confusion
-> legacy system transfers from one system to another and related aproximations.

But people handle this usually pretty good.

awemawson:
OK time to tackle the oil drip and water leak. Not been looking forward to this as the mounting bolts on the 90 degree adaptor on the rear of the oil / water heat exchanger are mutually blocking access to each other.

First job, drain the coolant below the heater exchanger level, saving it as it has anti-freeze that I recently added. No suitable containers so a friend produced a 205 litre plastic drum that had previously held cow teat wash (!) After a good clean out, coolant transferred to drum and I could start dismantling. I removed the electrical connections to the water jacket heater, and unscrewed it - it was evident that my braze of the copper slug to brass fitting had not been perfect and coolant had got into the rear of the heating element, hence tripping my RCD. I will make another out of solid bronze, so hopefully no leaks as no joints! The element is powered up as I type on a 24 volt lab supply (so 20 watts not the rated 200 watts at 240v) drying out - so far leakage has reduced from 120K to 6 meg-ohms but I'll let it cook for a while.

Then I started on the bolts - fiddly but just possible and eventually they were all out. The right angled piece was firmly stuck on the one locating stud (all the rest were bolts) and I gently applied the thin end of the wedge in the form initially of a putty knife taking care not to damage the flange faces. To get further spacing I ended up using two putty knives with a screwdriver blade between them again to avoid sealing face damage.

Eventually she was off, with the expected deluge of residual oil and water - turns out that the heat exchanger body has a large 'O' ring sealing it to the housing, with gaskets to engine block and main casting. I very much doubt whether the parts are available, and indeed the parts book says that the O ring is supplied as part of the tube assembly. I will ring around on Monday, but the gaskets are relatively easy to make, and the O ring will be available if I can accurately determine what size it should be. It slides into and seals in a 90.75 bore so probably needs to be a tad larger than that.

I strongly suspect that I caused all this havoc :bang: When I installed the water jacket heater it got rather hot and I suspect cooked the O ring due to an airlock. I now realise that there is a drain plug below it where water / air can be bled off.

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