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Which 3D printer?
Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: hanermo on July 17, 2019, 09:17:30 PM ---Pls help a sceptic.
What has actually been really cool or truly useful with the printer, actual use ?
Anything is fine, ultra geek or artistic included.
I am not anti 3dp, I just struggle to see actual results.
--- End quote ---
Check some posts from Joules. He does some really cool stuff with a 3D printer.
A Useful 3D Print
3D Printed Solar Shield
3D Printed Myforod Way Wiper
Take a look at a few posts from him on this thread HERE.
Hope that helps. I felt a bit like that too early on. Seeing Joules posts is one of the things that pushed me over the edge.
Eric
AdeV:
--- Quote from: hanermo on July 17, 2019, 09:17:30 PM ---What has actually been really cool or truly useful with the printer, actual use ?
Anything is fine, ultra geek or artistic included.
--- End quote ---
I'm working on a "device" (too posh a word for it, really) which holds a wheel into a slot to guide a sliding glass wardrobe door. The bottom wheels are folded metal, and I was going to do that for the top wheels... but I can instead 3D print most of the thing, much more easily and accurately. It'll still need a bit of non-printable hardware - a long bolt and a spring, and I'll probably turn the wheel out of nylon with a bearing in it as originally planned rather than 3d print that too; but it's nice to be able to set a print off, and check it out in the morning (it's a 6 1/2 hour print at the moment), and since it only cost pennies in plastic, I don't mind binning a few.
ddmckee54:
What can you actually use your 3D printer for? That question really becomes what do you want to use your 3D printer for?
I print parts for my RC projects, though that probably falls into the toys category of things that are 3D printed.
Two nights ago I printed a holder for my T6 thru T10 Torx drivers. No pictures, but it actually did happen.
I liked the way design worked out, so last night I started work a similar version to hold the interchangeable bits for my hex driver set. There's 6 bits in the set with the un-used bits storing in the handle of the driver; 1.5mm thru 3.0mm Allen bits, a straight screw-driver bit and about a #00 Phillip's bit. It's a hassle every time I want to change the bit to take the handle apart to get to the bit, especially finding the correct bit.
The printed items are rather light so I've been adding 1/2-13 nuts that I press into the base for weight. They sell these nuts and bolts by the pound at a nearby farm supply store for a ridiculously low price. They are just a couple of dollars per pound for the grade 5 stuff, and a one pound bag of nuts will probably last me for years.
I have an adjustable desk light, the parallelogram type, that I've had for close to 20 years. One of the plastic brackets broke so the light became junk. It was a Sunday afternoon's work to draw the bracket in 3D CAD and print replacement brackets, that was about a year ago and the light is still in service.
If you've got your printer properly tuned you can turn out parts dimensionally accurate to at least 0.1mm. My parts are good to about +/- 0.02mm, and if I worked at it I could probably get closer. (But that close enough for me right now.)
My hands have a tremor, makes it hard to crimp itty-bitty wires and terminals together and impossible to solder electronics. For a year or so I have been working on 3D printing jigs that will help me to do this. They are just about usable, and I've got a bunch of printed parts sitting on my desk waiting for me to take that project off the back-burner and get back to work on it again.
It's more of a matter of - 'What do you want to print with your 3D printer?'
Don
AdeV:
Eric - what temperature do you run your glass bed at for PLA? I tried the default 60 degrees, and the part peeled off before it got more than 1mm high. Went up to 70 degrees and it pulled away at less than half that... should I be running it cooler? Maybe 50 degrees? I'd experiment more, but I've got another 5:30am start, and already it's nearly 11pm... gonna be cranky in the morning...
Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: AdeV on July 18, 2019, 05:45:11 PM ---Eric - what temperature do you run your glass bed at for PLA? I tried the default 60 degrees, and the part peeled off before it got more than 1mm high. Went up to 70 degrees and it pulled away at less than half that... should I be running it cooler? Maybe 50 degrees? I'd experiment more, but I've got another 5:30am start, and already it's nearly 11pm... gonna be cranky in the morning...
--- End quote ---
Hiya Ade,
I run the bed @60. But, I have changed a few other settings.... What are you using for a slicer? I use Cura.
Print speed @ 45 mm/s and infill @75 mm/s
Initial layer Speed 22.5 mm/s
Print temp is 200c
Initial Print temp is 185c
Initial layer flow 103%
Initial fan speed 0%
BUT first clean the plate with rubbing alcohol. Use the good stuff! I had adhesion issues until i did that.
Also... change your retraction distance to 10mm, Helps with stringing.
Eric
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