The Breakroom > The Water Cooler
Broken CNC milling machine
awemawson:
You shouldn't lose parameters if a breaker trips :scratch:
The 'replace batteries' message has cleared has it?
I ask because it's not impossible to put the batteries in wrong polarity. iirc it's positive outwards on a TNC151 but on my TNC355 they are in a tiny tube buried inside the control and even worse to see !
AdeV:
--- Quote from: awemawson on February 17, 2019, 12:17:59 PM ---You shouldn't lose parameters if a breaker trips :scratch:
The 'replace batteries' message has cleared has it?
I ask because it's not impossible to put the batteries in wrong polarity. iirc it's positive outwards on a TNC151 but on my TNC355 they are in a tiny tube buried inside the control and even worse to see !
--- End quote ---
I'd not expect to lose the parameters on a battery change, no: However, that's what's happening. Polarity is correct. The only thing I can think of immediately is the little plastic housing is somehow stopping the batteries from connecting properly... It's the same on the TNC151 - a thin tube with a plastic insert that carries the three cells.
awemawson:
But if that's the case the 'change batteries' message will persist :scratch:
AdeV:
The battery message doesn't come up if there's no batteries in it... either that, or it comes up in German (there are a couple of messages).
AdeV:
Bit of an update...
Purely by chance, I tried the batteries I was putting in the mill in another device ("The Exterminator!" fly killer, since you ask :zap:), and it worked, but then didn't..... Hmm... A little investigation suggested one of the terminals wasn't making a good contact; so I scrubbed it with a sanding block, perfect.... Just put them back in the mill, typed all 263 parameters in (luckily, about a pageful of them are zero!), held my breath and powered down.... and back on. It came back in English! Yay!! So that's one of the jobs off the list.
I've also managed, courtesy of another group, to grab a copy of the diagnostics/setup manual for the KTK drive - so maybe tomorrow, I'll have a crack at adjusting my drive board using the given procedure to see if I can get it to spin up without tripping all of the electrics off...
If that doesn't work, somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean (er, hopefully still on a boat!) is a replacement drive unit, with the thyristor board & the control board all in its box. Obviously I'll replace the big fat capacitors before I try to use it, and if THAT doesn't work, then at least I will know where the fault lies... finding a replacement for that board, however, is likely to be an excercise in pain - apparently they're rarer than hen's teeth (and the thyristor board was rare enough!) I don't really want to go down the road of buying another entire machine just to get one board out of it; but without knowing what the electronical magic that's needed to drive the spindle at the appropriate RPMs, at this time I don't know what I'd replace it with if I did to a LinuxCNC (or similar) retrofit. If I do get it going, though, I want to find a replacement for the CRT, which is getting very dim in its old age.
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