Author Topic: Building Wildings Tower Clock (Read 61618 times)

raynerd · « **on:** November 22, 2018, 03:26:36 PM »

Hiya,
Not posted in ages. I’ve been busy with work, the kids and my house and just to keep my workshop cravings alive, I’ve been messing around buying small Cowells lathes over the last year but not really getting stuck into a project. Well, all house jobs are done, the house work is done, winter is drawing in and I’ve managed to tidy my workshop and get focused. I’m now building Wildings Tower Clock and a little way through.

So here is my progress so far. I know there will be lots of errors and improvements and as always, I post for hints, tips and of course encouragement. So here is part one to four..... progress so far....

Thanks for watching!

raynerd · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2018, 03:27:01 PM »

raynerd · « **Reply #2 on:** November 22, 2018, 03:27:40 PM »

raynerd · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2018, 03:28:12 PM »

raynerd · « **Reply #4 on:** November 22, 2018, 03:29:20 PM »

raynerd · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2018, 07:59:38 AM »

My first error!!

awemawson · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2018, 08:12:32 AM »

Bad luck Chris - wheel cutting can be a real test of concentration. My worst one was when foolishly I responded to a ringing telephone - I should just have let it ring !

raynerd · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2018, 11:09:31 AM »

Yes, it was a killer. I felt sick and was storming around kicking things for a few minutes.

I was taking a video, run the cutter through the wheel, stopped the video, and spun the rotary table without withdrawing the cutter!! (Sure it didn’t do the cutter much good either).

Easy answer is not to do videos but I enjoy logging it - its part of the fun so I just need to focus more. However, it is a lot of focus for 120 teeth!!

I was more than impressed with the repair job. It looks good and solid and turned out better than expected! I’m just going to intentially keep a bit of meat on the wheel and not cross out too high up to the rim.

Chris

philf · « **Reply #8 on:** November 28, 2018, 12:57:30 PM »

Well fixed Chris - I can imagine how you felt!

millwright · « **Reply #9 on:** November 28, 2018, 03:41:39 PM »

A nice save Chris, and a good vid as usual.

:clap

John

jb3cx · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2018, 04:50:23 AM »

First class repair chris.

raynerd · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2018, 04:22:36 PM »

Thanks chaps. Wish I hadn't been stupid enough to need to repair it but I am pleased with how it turned outs.
I'm onto the ratchet wheel now.
Chris

smiffy · « **Reply #12 on:** December 02, 2018, 12:42:35 PM »

Which escarpment are you going to use?
When I built this clock I make the grasshopper . Its a fiddle to make and get running but worth while the effort
Mike

BillTodd · « **Reply #13 on:** December 04, 2018, 09:21:53 AM »

BTDT

Nice fix:-)

Why is the gear so thick? is it really carrying a significant load?

Bill

raynerd · « **Reply #14 on:** December 10, 2018, 02:32:36 PM »

Sorry for missing the posts above...progress is slow as I’ve been busy with work.

Smiffy - now I know you’ve built this clock I’m going to be picking your brains!!! I’m going for the grasshopper. Did you get it running ok and is it still running? Any pics?

BillTodd - yes, it has a significant load on it as it carry’s the main weights.

Progress has been slow as I only managed a few evenings this last 7 days... but 8 cut the ratchet wheel:

smiffy · « **Reply #15 on:** December 11, 2018, 06:05:10 AM »

It is over 10 years ago that I built the clock . I did get it running but never installed it anywhere due to moving house some 5 years ago .It has sat in a box since then waiting to be fitted somewhere .
The grasshopper requires very careful marking out and the pivot hole to pallet anchor face is critical , also the fitting of the pin and bushing holes for both arms to pivot on must be an exact fit . The adjusting screws could benefit from a small brass pad fitted to them as they are difficult to keep exactly in line with the grasshopper arms during adjustment .
To get the clock up and running again is on my to do list but watemills. vintage cars and numerous other projects seem to get in the way plus I have some 20 other clocks taking up space in the house
Mike

raynerd · « **Reply #16 on:** December 11, 2018, 10:46:38 AM »

Cracking looking clock! I now know who to come to when I get stuck.

Did you cut your own bevel gears?

Chris

smiffy · « **Reply #17 on:** December 11, 2018, 12:32:24 PM »

Yes I did cut the bevel gears , as they will only be very lightly loaded I cut them with a parallel tooth form using a conventional gear cutter .As the area of contact is small it works fine .
From memory I think the hardest gears to make were the lantern pinions . Initially I started by making them in one piece and drilling through from one end to insert the wire but this proved very difficult as the drill would wander on trying to start the hole in the second flange .
I eventually made a flange and center shaft with a second flange reamed to be a press fit onto the onto the center shaft . Both flanges were pre drilled before assembly.
Mike

raynerd · « **Reply #18 on:** December 11, 2018, 05:07:51 PM »

Nice work.

Question for you; on the click spring, the plans say to reduce the thickness of the spoon end to about half. Why, I don’t understand why this is needed?
Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #19 on:** December 12, 2018, 01:38:08 PM »

Second question.....For anyone who has built this clock or anyone with suggestions...the lantern pinions call for 54 gauge pivot wire. I can not buy this new. The only option I have is 1.3mm or 1.4mm. Marginally too small or too large. Anyone know a source of 54 gauge pivot steel or any thoughts on which you would go for...to big or small. My thought is smaller side to avoid binding?

seadog · « **Reply #20 on:** December 12, 2018, 02:33:16 PM »

Anything here of use to you?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-x-Blue-Steel-Pivot-Wire-Assorted-Tempered-Clock-Repair-Pinions-Staffs-CX81A/253949644981?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Blue-Steel-Wire-Pinion-Pivot-Clock-Thin-Watch-Pocketwatch-Tempered-Rod/281159304097?

smiffy · « **Reply #21 on:** December 12, 2018, 02:39:17 PM »

My Zeus gives no 54 as 1.4 and that is what I used . As far as I understand it, as a lantern pinion is only suitable to use as a driven gear the critic dimension is above the addendum so dimensions below the dedendum are less critical . I am not a expert on gearing but that is how I understand it .
The other question about the click spring is to lower screw head so it can not catch and snag on the line .The same applies to the screw in the click
I used round head screws instead. This is mentioned in the book I have
Mike

raynerd · « **Reply #22 on:** December 12, 2018, 04:01:18 PM »

Sorry sorry... I can get 1.3 or 1.5mm not 1.4!! You are obsolutrly correct, 54 gauge is 1.397mm
I’ve been to Ian Cobb who can source everything and he can’t get 1.4mm...

So question back again. 1.3 or 1.5mm? I appreciate your mention about above the addendum being critical and I agree but isn’t this a worry as that suggests the diameter is the critical bit?

smiffy · « **Reply #23 on:** December 12, 2018, 04:29:47 PM »

I doubt if using either size would make much difference .By there very essence lantern pinons are more forgiving to a fairly wide tolerance range than a conventional gear.

smiffy · « **Reply #24 on:** December 13, 2018, 03:49:48 AM »

This is a bit nearer https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Blue-Steel-Wire-Pinion-Pivot-Clock-Thin-Watch-Pocketwatch-Tempered-Rod/281159304097?hash=item41766683a1:m:mwKtNQDlMK3L2Xnmfwk0-Cw:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

They list 1.45 mm

raynerd · « **Reply #25 on:** December 13, 2018, 05:29:58 PM »

Great find! Thank you. I’ve ordered.

Chipist1 · « **Reply #26 on:** December 15, 2018, 06:11:51 AM »

How about using a drawplate?

chipenter · « **Reply #27 on:** December 15, 2018, 03:02:03 PM »

Pinion steel is hardened and tempered to a similar hardness to alan keys .

raynerd · « **Reply #28 on:** February 03, 2019, 07:04:26 AM »

Slowwwww progress! I expected to be blasting this over Christmas...I ended up playing with the kids and then being ill!

Blurbillon · « **Reply #29 on:** February 05, 2019, 05:30:58 AM »

Nicely done so far.

A word of warning though, all the blue steel wire that I've bought has been very hit and miss. The sizes aren't super accurate and especially the hardness varies a lot. A few hundreths of a mm won't make any practical difference in a clock this size, but I'd be more worried about the heat treatment of the wire.

A lantern pinion won't be ideal no matter what you do, but it certainly is good enough. However it is important that the wheel tooth form is corrected and the depthing done properly to ensure as smooth engagement as possible.

WeldingRod · « **Reply #30 on:** February 05, 2019, 08:29:17 AM »

Have you thought about using drill blanks for your pinion wires?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

awemawson · « **Reply #31 on:** February 05, 2019, 08:49:27 AM »

Quote from: WeldingRod on February 05, 2019, 08:29:17 AM

Have you thought about using drill blanks for your pinion wires?

And stupidly it is cheaper to buy the actual drills and use their shanks than buy specific drill blanks

WeldingRod · « **Reply #32 on:** February 05, 2019, 09:04:48 AM »

If your pinion is small enough that the shank works; I don't know how much you need.

https://www.mcmaster.com/2900a219 will get you a hardened and ground blank. I don't see anything longer, though. Sorry!

smiffy · « **Reply #33 on:** February 05, 2019, 01:18:38 PM »

Drill blanks are available here https://www.drill-service.co.uk/products/drills/drill-blanks/blk-hss-drill-blanks/

Another alternative and useful source of small size quality steel is sewing machine needles
Mike

raynerd · « **Reply #34 on:** October 09, 2019, 05:38:33 PM »

A small delay...but a little progress

raynerd · « **Reply #35 on:** October 09, 2019, 05:39:28 PM »

raynerd · « **Reply #36 on:** November 19, 2023, 08:27:20 PM »

Well that was a long break - nearly four years! My wife opened a shop and with two small children as well, I ended up with no time at all for my workshop. The shop closed in summer (which is a very positive thing believe it or not!) and so I’ve been getting back into the workshop on a regular basis. I’ve finally finished reorganising and tidying (the shop stock and machining quite literally took over my workshop!) and I’ve now restarted the clock.
I’m enthusiastic and have my old spark back for machining. Hopefully there will be more updates as I intend to really push on this coming winter.
In this Part 10, I’ve drilled the frame for the main wheel and barrel arbor, made the bushes and fitted them to the frame.

Building a Tower Clock - pt10 Main Wheel Bushes and Fitting the Main Wheel Arbor

philf · « **Reply #37 on:** November 20, 2023, 04:38:22 AM »

Welcome back Chris!

Joules · « **Reply #38 on:** November 20, 2023, 05:07:01 AM »

Never mind the clock and the rest of lifes BS, it's just nice to see you back Chris.

vtsteam · « **Reply #39 on:** November 20, 2023, 10:15:47 AM »

Hi Chris!

BillTodd · « **Reply #40 on:** November 20, 2023, 12:13:14 PM »

Sometimes a break is good for productivity....

that's my excuse ;-)

raynerd · « **Reply #41 on:** November 20, 2023, 04:06:38 PM »

Thanks a lot PhilF, Joules, BillTodd and vtsteam!

Nice to see some of the old names still posting on here. Glad to be back and glad to be more relaxed and doing what I enjoy. I’m still rubbish and learning as I go but it’s all good fun! I’ve just build a new World of Ward rotary divider module so I’ll post about that when I get chance.

Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #42 on:** November 26, 2023, 05:10:12 PM »

I decided to go ahead with the CNC machine to cut the flat stock parts. So whilst I was on the machine I drew up quite a few and got them all done. I used v-carve to draw the parts which took a long time for me - probably others would have done this much faster. Many of the holes are cut for location and I’ll cut these to size later. I ended up doing the pendulum support brackets, quadrantal plate, back cock and bearing cocks.
I’ll move to working on the bearing cocks next, turn the bearing bushes and make some of the arbours. Quite a bit to do to make the next instalment I expect. Thanks for watching:

i=jrvYx0tgpzpSxit2

philf · « **Reply #43 on:** November 26, 2023, 05:42:13 PM »

When did you get that CNC Chris?

I use Vectric Cut 2D for parts like that - drawn first in 2d in Autocad.

Did you leave a small (0.1 or 0.2mm) cut to finish the edges? Cut 2D lets you leave whatever you like for a final cut. You tend to get a really nice finish with a climb-cut clean-up cut.

raynerd · « **Reply #44 on:** November 28, 2023, 12:52:47 PM »

Hi Phil

No - that would be an excellent plan. I’ll check but I'm not sure how I’d do that in v-carve other than generate separate vectors to follow and account for the finishing cut in the measurements.

What cutter do you use on brass. I’ve realised that picking the appropriate cutter is more than half the battle. I used a single cut 4mm cutter for most of the work and it ended up with a half decent finish but it will need hand polishing. The finish is better than I expected. It’s quite a big CNC machine and didn’t expect it to cut as well as it did. Most of the work I’ve been doing on it was plastic over covid. We purchased it then when my wife was struggling with her work and it paid off at the time. Now it’s just another tool in my workshop. Although in a small workshop it does take up a lot of space but I wouldn’t be without it. Are you still using the converted machine / was it a pantograph? I knew it blew me away when you used it to cut those wheel cutter profiles!

For anyone who has built this clock, @smiffy or anyone else. Have you any pictures of the back of this clock, the pendulum assembly and back cock, crutch? I appreciate it’ll be against the wall but any pics would be really helpful even at an angle if it is against the wall and you can’t get directly behind it.

Thanks a lot
Chris

philf · « **Reply #45 on:** November 28, 2023, 02:40:00 PM »

Hi Chris,

In Cut 2D there's an Allowance Offset setting which will leave whatever you enter for a final cut. Or there is a Do A Separate Last Pass setting which does more or less the same thing but (bizarrely) doesn't work with lead-ins and lead-outs. (I queried this with Vectric and they did try to explain why but I couldn't for the life of me understand their reasoning.)

The lead-ins and outs mean that you don't get a witness mark where the tool plunges into the work.

So I leave an Allowance Offset of say 0.1 or 0.2mm and then do another toolpath with zero Allowance Offset.

With free cutting brass you may ne better with straight fluted cutters. I haven't got any except for woodworking router cutters.

Yes - I'm still using the converted pantograph engraver. I'll be doing some engraving of badges and trophies for our cycling club in the next week or so. Over the years I've saved them £100s.

Phil.

smiffy · « **Reply #46 on:** November 29, 2023, 03:07:08 PM »

A few pictures of my Wildings turret clock

raynerd · « **Reply #47 on:** December 03, 2023, 07:28:39 PM »

Thank you so much for the pictures! Really helpful.

Another question for you. Is the lantern pinion on the 2nd wheel arbor fixed on with loctite. I presume so as I can’t see how else it’s attached and I’ve read the book countless times. I’m certain it must say it somewhere but I’m missing it!
Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #48 on:** December 08, 2023, 07:50:38 AM »

Afternoon all, I’ve just been working on the lantern pinion and 2nd arbor:

eature=shared

raynerd · « **Reply #49 on:** November 24, 2024, 10:59:28 AM »

It’s been 11 months with little progress. Finally found some time to keep moving forward with this.

i=tm2CYlxdJdcMCzLb[/youtube]

raynerd · « **Reply #50 on:** December 02, 2024, 01:01:25 PM »

A little more progress and finally a swinging pendulum!

i=WeSrKDeIJ9_bPVut

raynerd · « **Reply #51 on:** January 01, 2025, 04:36:30 PM »

A bit more progress if anyone is interested! Finally running now….

i=KSyJmmy5NTwjcdUu

i=MLzMWWWc52P6tca2

i=SBUcTg4C8jSDhT2l

BillTodd · « **Reply #52 on:** January 02, 2025, 05:00:14 AM »

I know nothing about clock escapements but to me the angle on the end of the pallet, drive face, should be as close to square as possible to keep the drive push as small as possible (only just enough to keep the pendulum swinging , which is the idea behind the dead beat escapement) .

raynerd · « **Reply #53 on:** January 02, 2025, 04:06:31 PM »

Quote from: BillTodd on January 02, 2025, 05:00:14 AM

I know nothing about clock escapements but to me the angle on the end of the pallet, drive face, should be as close to square as possible to keep the drive push as small as possible (only just enough to keep the pendulum swinging , which is the idea behind the dead beat escapement) .

Thanks for the reply Bill. This is similar what some of the experienced clock makers are saying on the NAWCC forum which I’m also posting on. I’m just following the plans by Wilding and what is frustrating me is that the pallets and pallet frame are to plan. I’ve checked and checked again unless I’m making some monumental error that I’m missing. Too many people are suggesting this, not to be right. I’m just worried about moving away from the plans. I’ll keep looking at it and try and figure it out. My other issue is that I don’t really want to be just randomly taking angle off the end pallet without knowing a bit of theory to backup what I’m trying to achieve. Thanks again Bill!

BillTodd · « **Reply #54 on:** January 02, 2025, 06:37:51 PM »

eature=shared

raynerd · « **Reply #55 on:** January 16, 2025, 07:16:01 PM »

Hi Bill

Thanks for the reply. I actually managed to fix it and it was totally something different and proper accident!!

i=E6wF1LSglU9xN-48

BillTodd · « **Reply #56 on:** January 17, 2025, 06:47:56 AM »

Yes happy accident :-)

The escapement is certainly operating as it should now , with the extra little push

raynerd · « **Reply #57 on:** January 29, 2025, 03:43:33 PM »

Yea cheers Bill. It really was an amazing accident. I just thoughts I’d done a slightly nicer job at making it and then wondered if the 0.4mm trundles would change anything. So glad I did!

I made the hands last week. So strange the bluing that I couldnt pick the colour on the camera and even the finally blued hands look patchy and yet in real life look uniform and blue! Still I made a video for the fun of it!

i=-ShVRalbLWxF_Uif

BillTodd · « **Reply #58 on:** January 29, 2025, 04:59:05 PM »

Click-spring magic or perhaps soft lighting

raynerd · « **Reply #59 on:** January 31, 2025, 04:53:37 AM »

Yes I don’t know how he did the great video he made but I was using just shop lighting and an iPhone. I only make my videos for a bit of fun. I am slightly happier that I posted on NAWCC and someone also said it is incredibly hard to pick up the colour on camera so glad I’m not alone on that. Even the thumb nail video which is my best photo attempt looks like it has a darker patch yet in real life is perfectly blue and uniform. Very strange.

raynerd · « **Reply #60 on:** March 07, 2025, 05:55:42 AM »

It’s finally finished after 5 long years. Ok, still a couple of tiny jobs to do, but it is polished up, the cabinets is built and it’s keeping time. The auto winder is also working nicely.

Thanks to everyone who has replied over the years and followed along. It’s been good fun.

i=jcRFqxgWIkMg9o5E

modeng200023 · « **Reply #61 on:** March 07, 2025, 09:36:02 AM »

Well done, it looks magnificent.
John

vtsteam · « **Reply #62 on:** March 07, 2025, 11:58:56 AM »

Truly beautiful, Chris! And impressive!

I remember years ago the arcade game you made. One of those threads that forever sticks in your memory.

RussellT · « **Reply #63 on:** March 07, 2025, 02:39:18 PM »

Great job Chris

Russell

raynerd · « **Reply #64 on:** March 07, 2025, 03:21:08 PM »

Quote from: vtsteam on March 07, 2025, 11:58:56 AM

Truly beautiful, Chris! And impressive!

I remember years ago the arcade game you made. One of those threads that forever sticks in your memory.

😂 yea the penny pusher / tipping point machine. It was only about a month later we moved house and we knew it wouldn’t fit in my daughters new room. We sold it and she cried for ages - she still mentions it now and is she is 16! Time flies.

Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #65 on:** March 07, 2025, 03:22:08 PM »

Quote from: RussellT on March 07, 2025, 02:39:18 PM

Great job Chris

Russell

Thanks Russell, much appreciated and thanks for taking the time to comment.

tom osselton · « **Reply #66 on:** March 07, 2025, 04:43:31 PM »

Beautiful

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Author Topic: Building Wildings Tower Clock (Read 61618 times)