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Mini mill Stand SX2 Plus

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Buell:
...

WeldingRod:
Um... I'll try to hit the high points!
First, take a file or a directory grinder and grind a higbee on the end of the threads.  Then clean the corners of the higbee.  It's used on firehouses and oilfield iron; you need to google a picture because my explanation isnt going to cut it...
Your lead screw needs to have one end fixed axially to one end of the table.  This can be done with a pair of bearings.  You want to run that end close to the nut, then tighten the screws to the table to produce alignment.  The other end can float axially, but your motor's centerline needs to agree pretty well with the nut.  You can do.the same trick (get close to the nut n tighten) on that end.
Btw, I hate what spell check does to axially and higbee!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

velocette:
Hi
Is the lead screw stainless steel as this is unlikely unless that is what was ordered.  Even so It is possible to drill the end and fit an extension shaft to it. The Lead screw nuts of far eastern origin have lots of play that produces lots of backlash unfortunately. The Thrust bearings at the right hand end can be adjusted to give no back lash. A power feed motor That can be mounted to slide  on a couple of rods to disengage the drive using a simple dog clutch for hand feeding is an advantage. 

Eric

Buell:
It is a stainless Acme Trapezoidal lead screw. It does fit the original nut...which is nice !!theres one job I dont have to do at the moment..wont speak to soon.  My idea was to just copy the original block that the crank is mounted to. But then when i saw the state of the end of the original lead-screw I was wondering if either the new lead-screw would wear too quick or the old original nut would wear out quicker. Obviously if its stainless steel and the nut is Cast iron there maybe an issue there? Using the brass new nut ...well the jury is out on that but if i must heh. Bearing in mind that the cranking speed and amount of travel will be increased once it works nicely... i don't really want to take the whole thing apart again to sort another piece of the jigsaw. Do it right once and hopefully it will be good to go. Thats the theory.

At the moment the face of the lead-screw bares against the cast-iron block and thats it, my thought was a bearing to be fitted on the shaft and then i guessed you would have to have a flat thrust bearing on the outside to keep the load on it closest to the crank handle but heh I'm thinking on the fly here.

Buell:
That stainless is no fun to work with.. Old shaft was just under 8mm new shaft 9.2mm by the time i got around to stopping myself. Hole in the block is 12.75mm.
I used carbide index tool was that the right idea, seemed to cut ok but was using it on a mini lathe with power feed something i dont normally do but thought the finish would be better that way ! its just a bit coarse to me . still its all about the learning on the way.

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